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#85663 07/17/11 07:48 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 72
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Joined: Dec 2003
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I'd like to solicit opinions and experiences climbing University Peak. I'm not sure whether to go north face route or south slope route. Both are within my abilities. I have three days in the area to explore so hiking time is not an issue. This is one of my two Sierra trips this summer. I have checked as many trip reports as I could find and both routes seem fun and challenging. Anyone out there willing to help sway me one way or another? Thanks.

toddc #85667 07/18/11 05:38 AM
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 39
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For variety you can do both. I've gone up the south slope and descended the north face to keep things interesting. I would imagine that the north face would still provide long stretches of snow for glissading. My only concern would be for traversing a steep stretch of snow that tends to linger on the north side that you have to cross when coming up from the south slope.

If you only want to do one side, I would choose the north slope. I think the approach past all the lakes is prettier, and the climb itself is more interesting.

I would recommend getting up and down as early as possible, though. Prevailing afternoon winds bring in a lot of smoke from a fire that will likely burn until snow or heavy rains extinguish it.

Joined: Dec 2003
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I am leaning towards the north slope. I've only been over Kearsarge pass so the idea of exploring the lakes and camping at the bass of the mtn. is attractive. Bummer about the smoke. I'll be there in 2 weeks. Hopefully it will diminish. Thanks for the input.

toddc #85678 07/18/11 06:04 PM
Joined: Apr 2010
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my personal preference is to always climb firm snow rather than scree when given the choice. i imagine N slope of U peak will still give u lotsa snow top to bottom. Most beautiful big brown bear i ever saw was on trail around Flower Lake .. on another spring skiing trip i basecamped on northern shore of Matlock Lake and stared at N face U peak while chowing dinner - one of best sierra ski trips i ever had .. im partial to kearsarge area if u cant tell


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