Just returned-- camped at Trail Camp Thur. the 7th and summited Fri. the 8th. Part of our group took the chute up/down (with axe/crampons), and rest took switchbacks up/down (they had axe/crampons too but not everyone used them; some were ok with just poles). Both routes were quite do-able and the weather held up beautifully. Gratefully, all of us who started from T-Camp made the peak and back.
We started from T-Camp around 4:30-4:45AM. Summited around 10-10:40 and got back to camp between 1-2PM. My pals who took the switchbacks said they were mostly clear with some crusty/snowy/slushy/wet parts depending on the time of day. Just take care on the snowy traverses. They're only small patches now, but a slip would still be dangerous.
The snow was quite soft by the time we began our descent from the summit around 11AM. IMHO, if you glissade from the top of the chute where the angle is steep, you should definitely know how to use your axe or poles to control your speed-- do begin slowly! The deep gutter carved by the many buttocks sliding down is very soft by midday and will not keep you from heading straight down toward the rocks if you gain too much speed at the top. Of course, you don't have to follow that track; you can just make your own way down, which is what my buddy did. He slid straight past the right-turn and eventually self-arrested before the rocks.
Many thanks to this forum and its members! Good luck and safe hikes, everyone!
