Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board The mountaineer's route

How technical is this route? In "Mount Whitney moutain lore from the Whitney store" Doug Thompson says "the notch" will require climbing skills to manuver the it. However, I've read that it does not require ropes and other tech gear, unless snow and ice are present. My party plans to attempt this rout on June 17-21 2004. How was this section with snow and ice this past June?

Hey Jib,

When the Mountaineer's route is dry, ie. no snow, it's rated class 3. Which means that you won't need any technical climbing gear of any kind. The route is mostly a very! steep hike. The "climbing" you'll encounter is easy/moderate, although scary at times for some. (When I say "climbing," I'm referring to the times when you'll need to use your arms and hands.) The first climbing will be found at the Ebersbacher ledges about 2/3's the distance to Lower Boyscout Lake. You will have to pull yourself up onto many ledges and over some boulders, all of which is pretty easy. The entire route doesn't get any more difficult, "climbing" wise. The rest of the climbing is up near the summit/notch area, and again, is pretty easy/moderate depending on your fitness level.

When there is snow, obviously the situation changes. At the end of May 2002, I didn't encounter any significant snow all the way to the Notch near 13,000'. This year, at the end of May, I hit snow below Lower Boyscout Lake near 9500'. The snow level varies from year to year so keep a close eye on the trip reports and trail condition reports prior to your departure. The Whitney web cam is an excellent indicator if you know what your looking at...

Also, check out David Gair's post on the message board. He has some really great photos of the route. In June, I'm sure you'll have much less snow than that shown in his photo, but you never know...

Happy hiking(climbing...whatever)

I've climbed that route in May and some years have found it to be a hike on dirt and scree and other years (like this year) found it to have enough hard snow/ice to require ice axes and crampons, even snow shoes one year!. The best bet is to follow the posts on this board starting a few weeks before you climb and you'll get a pretty good picture of what conditions to expect. You might want to go back to this same week this year to see what kind of information is posted.

yes, check out daves discription.
Make sure you have someone who has done the route before.
The main trail is maintained so well I now agree with the posters who say its like a supermarket aisle. Kudos to the forrest service and others for maintaining it.
The mountaineers route is traveled way less then the main trail. I would clasify the front way as easy even with a 50 lb pack. The mountaineers route is moderate at its easiest point.
I have not encountered snow that much on the mountaineers route, its the ice that is the killer.
The traverse always has some ice and the gulley even had some last week when we did the climb.
I would recomend a helmet as you never know who may be above you when you do the notch.
The caping areas are great and you wont have any of the kooks that frequest the trail camp area.

When it's dry, the MR is basically a long, loose hike/scramble. Personally, I've never been motivated to climb it. I've used it as a descent from the East Face and East Buttress. Both times it was pretty dry, and the little snow/ice on the route was easily avoided.

June could be dry, or it could be really snowy. Who knows? I'm real nervous about recommending that people just go out and by an ice axe and crampons. There are a lot of bad accidents that happen when people don't have adequate training in their use. If it looks like it's going to be a big snow year I'd consider everyone in the party taking a course in snow travel prior to the trip if they don't already know how it's done.

And don't be afraid to back off. I bailed on the east ridge of Russell a few years back due to crappy weather and an inexperienced partner who didn't know he didn't know his real limits. Better to be alive.

I would just add that you should heed the advice to WEAR A HELMET! I saw my partner get hit with a rock the size of a football while doing this route.For a moment I thought that was the end for him.Also, do not be fooled by warm weather on the route.Areas of the notch and the chutes above will freeze over night and stay frozen until mid day at times. Areas that are shaded may have ice all day.

Much thanks to all! Reading book discriptions of the MR I had formed my some conclusions. It's nice to hear from so many others and thier points of view. I will heed all the advice. I am going to forward your advice to the others in my party. We had already decided to "no go" if one or all feels scetchy about the trail or thier skills. Thanks again

Its been 5 years since I did the route and belive me if you have only used the route for a "decent"
you do not know the route.
If your above it then you naturally can see any ice or snow. Some people think marathons are easy, they really are but then your only out there for 3 or 4 hours. If you choose to do the mountaineers route you have a whole day of using your legs and arms to get to the top.