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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 27
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 27
This is a trip report from my Whitney trip for this year. We hiked in on 9/6 and hiked out on 9/11. We climbed the East Face, East Buttress and East Ridge of Russell. I'll warn you, it's a long one. Enjoy!

Mt. Whitney 2003 Trip Report

Joined: Jun 2003
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Awesome trip report!!

Extremely detailed, extremely interesting!

Thanks so much for taking the time to write it up and share it with everyone!

Joined: May 2003
Posts: 68
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Joined: May 2003
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Whitneyaddict, we were there on 9/10 - 9/12...what colored was your tent? where were you camped? did you see that guy/girl couple from Washington on the buttress(he had a beard and she had long blonde hair)? how about that 6.6' danish guy with his 5.8' partner with the red helmet and red jacket? he went swimming nude in iceberg around 6pm on 9/10...no kidding! that was us...

a couple of comments about your report:

fresh air traverse -- it's a 30' traverse (not 60')...i agree with you that the chimney between the traverse and the grand staircase was the crux of the whole climb with that one 5.7 move (versus the supposedly 5.7 chimney crux at the top of the grand staircase..which seemed like pretty easy)

gear - i would be very suprised if you used your #2.5 and #3 cam...i suggest you leave it at home and carry a #1...also, i suggest you carry only 8 oval biners, 2 quick draws...you didn't mention a cordelette for escaping a belay and other self rescue stuff, but i assume you had it...

We found a bunch of booty on the climb (hex & biner midway on the washboard, and a 48" REI sewn runner w/locking biner at the top of pitch 4 - between the grandstaircase alcove and the freshair traverse alcove)...if it's yours, we will happily give it back to you as a thanks for the wonderful posting you've done...

~Swifty

Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 27
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Joined: Mar 2003
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Swifty, we were in the blue/green Eureka Zues Exo 2. We actually met the couple from Seattle on the night of 9/8 and then they followed us up the Buttress, basically climbing right behind us. They were not 100% sure of the route and pretty much climbed behind us the whole morning. It was fun to suffer together in the cold. I didn't see the guy go swimming though, I think we were in bed pretty early that night looking at pics on my digital camera.

As for your comments, in my report I say that once you cross over the ledge and downclimb to the sandy ledges, it is approx 60' into the corner where you then climb up to the belay point for the Fresh Air Traverse. You are correct that the actual traverse part is only about 30', but from belay to belay it is probably somewhere in the 60+ range, again depending upon where you belay from. I'll make sure this is a little clearer in my TR.

As for my gear, don't remeber what I used, but we placed very little gear on the whole route. I know I used each of the aliens at least once. I also used some of my ovals to rack the cams with. I could definitely have gotten by with 1 or 2 less cams, nuts & biners. I was probably more apt to bring more gear since I had not climbed on real rock all summer. I also don't use quickdraws any more, only slings with free biners (my feeling is that draws are useless on trad routes where a 24" sling is more versatile). Also no cordelette, that's what my 2 48" slings are for.

As for the gear, none of it is mine. Thanks for the offer though. Hope you had fun on your trip. I should be posting pics soon as well.

Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 142
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Joined: Jun 2003
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whitneyaddict,
thank you for great TR.
Hurry up with pics.
tomi


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