Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Mountaineer's route October the 4th

We plan to ascent Mt Whitney via the Mountaineer's Route next week-end. Anyone did it recently could decribe the conditions ? Is there any snow left ?
Thanks for the replies !

As of 9/11 there was no snow up there. I only descended the MR twice after climbing the E. Face and E. Buttress so I can't really give a good description for someone ascending the MR. There were a few small patches of ice in the first chute that were easily avoidable (remember though this is a climber's perspective, easily avoidable for me might mean very scary for someone else).

I do not know if they have gotten any snow up there since then.

Good Luck!

Four friends just did the route on Saturday (9/27). I can't give you a direct report, since I only went as far as Lower Boy Scout Lake, due to the aftereffects of a flu/cold. But, I can tell you what they told me (which matches what I was told by the rangers on Friday):

The route is completely clear of snow, and it is generally in great condition. EXCEPT the climb up through the scree to the notch (just below the final climb up the chutes. The rock is very loose, and there are lots of rock falls. Helmets are highly recommended for this section. The ranger recommended staying high of the scree, but I can't verify this route.

The top chutes and the traverse that avoids the chutes are clear of snow.

We just finished the Mountaineer Route yesterday (Sunday, 9-28). We camped at Iceberg Saturday night. I think this is the correct definition of the various stages of the hike from the lake to the top:

1. The Chute- the fan of granite from the lake to about one-third of the way to the peak.

2. The Couloir- begins at the top of the Chute, continuing on at a similar incline, but surrounded by granite walls on either side.

3. The Notch- a level spot at the top of the Couloir.

4. The Gulley- an immediate left turn from the Notch starts up the Gulley. This section requires a fair amount of class 3 to 5 climbing, with a lot of exposure.

5. The Traverse- continues nearly level from the Notch to the back of the mountain where one can rejoin the main trail for the final ten minutes to the summit. This section can be very dangerous due to almost year-round ice in a section that gets very little sunlight.

The trip really gets exciting from Iceberg to the top. We stayed to the left side of the chute. I went up the middle of the couloir where the loose sand and rocks allowed progress at a pace of about three steps forward and two steps back. At the moment the Traverse is ice-free, making it a much easier path to the summit than the Gulley.

Here's a winter view of the way up:



and how crazy steep it is:

I'm to going to attempt the hike from Whitney Portal to the summit on a one day permit on october 5 with wo friends of mine .

I have not been able to find any infomation on the condition of the trail and the summit area except on this page.

As of September 30, what is the condition of the trail. Is there any snow or ice? Has there been any lighninng? If you have current information pleae post it.

Thank you very much.

My post again, using the above terminology.

Four friends just did the route on Saturday (9/27). I can't give you a direct report, since I only went as far as Lower Boy Scout Lake, due to the aftereffects of a flu/cold. But, I can tell you what they told me (which matches what I was told by the rangers on Friday):

The route is completely clear of snow, and it is generally in great condition. EXCEPT the climb up through the scree on the coulier to the notch (just below the final climb up the gulley). The rock is very loose, and there are lots of rock falls. Helmets are highly recommended for this section. The ranger recommended staying high of the scree, but I can't verify this route.

The gulley and the traverse that avoids it are clear of snow.

Very warm and clear skies. No lightning.

thank you all for your answers !

I concur with sasquatch's assessment--the upper part of the couloir before the notch is very loose, lots of sand on sloping slabs, plenty of opportunity to take a bad fall if you're not careful.

BTW, I'll be up there the same weekend doing the East Buttress with a friend. Maybe we'll cross paths...

Steve

Dave, great discription of the mountineers route.
better than some books on the subject.
we did the route the same day and were lucky to have great weather, except for the thick smoke from the nearby forrest fires. You are very correct on the traverse. After going up the gulley the decent down the traverse showed several parts of the path were solid ice covered with a fine layer of dirt.
Its amazing what a difference this route is compared to the regular path