Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Mountaineers Route in Jan

Going up the mr in Jan, and my burliest bag is a 20 degree. I was thinking of sleeping in my thick wool socks and layers. Any ideas on this? I did try a search, but did not see this exact topic addressed. I was wondering what people typically take clothing wise for this trip. I did the route this summer, but day hiked it light. Obviously, it is a different beast in the winter.
Thanks

In my opinion, that depends on too many variables. Some handle cold better than others. I can be in my 32 degree bag and my son is in the same tent and needs a 0 degree bag. Depends on what warmth your tent is able to hold in. Some are better than others. Depends on the weather. In January the night time temps at altitude could vary 10-20 degrees. With all that said, I'm not sure I would go up in January without my 0 degree bag.

Maybe a down jacket, pants, and booties in a 20 deg bag...with a couple of hand warmer packs in the bottom of the bag.

look into a flannel insert. Adds 10-15 degrees to the bag.

I agree with Spinefxr, I wouldn't go up with anything less than a 0 degree bag. It's not uncommon for temps to drop into the negatives.

I would want at least a zero degree bag and maybe warmer if you plan to camp up high. It would depend on the forecast and expected temperatures. The days are short in January.

The snow during January is usually not very well consolidated for hiking. It can be slow going. Allow yourself several days to complete the climb and make sure you bring avalanche gear including beacons and your party has practiced with them.

If you are bent on going in January you might consider bringing skis if there is enough snow by then. That would be my personal preference but if there was not enough snow to ski it I would probably not go to Whitney. I would find an alternative trip but again that's my personal preference.

to ask a pointed question....

if your "burliest bag" is only a +20 degree one, have you ever done any real winter, real high altitude/exposure stuff?

Wow - I took a 20-degree bag to sleep in at Consultation Lake in July. Can't imagine trying this in January. I'd err on the side of caution here and take a 0-degree bag. I don't think this is the place and time to discover you need more loft, unless you're polar bear-hardy.

Done plenty of high alt/high exposure. Just haven't overnighted in the winter yet.

You can always rent a warmer bag and extra climbing gear. You can't rent skills and experience. I recommend going with somebody experienced in winter travel.

Another option:

Get one of the REI 40 degree bags and carry two. You can use the light bag inside your usual bag.

I carry a 40 and 0 (I sleep cold) in the winter if I hear the forecast is for a cold front to be moving thru. On the flip side, it can be summer-like in January also. The is Sunny California,

Be prepared for a cold night. Whether you take Richard's advice above or some of the other's methods you should be prepared for temperatures to dip into the teens, single digits, or even colder depending on where and how high you plan to camp.

Snow conditions in January usually make progress slow. If you're serious about trying to make the summit allow yourself 5-days/4-nights for the trip.


It sounds like you've been around and done some stuff. Bring what you normally would for a winter/spring climb in the Sierra or any high altitude peak from Mexico's Volcanoes to Aconcagua. A couple layers of good wool long underwear of varying thicknesses, soft shell jacket, waterproof/breathable shells, and a big beefy down jacket to put over all of it. My kit would include:

Icebreaker 190 wt top
Icebreaker 260 wt top
Icebreaker 320 wt top
Patagonia Micropuff pullover
Waterproof/breathable shell. Mine is made by Mammut
Mountain Hardwear Sub Zero down parka

Icebreaker 190 wt bottom
Icebreaker 260 wt bottom
Mammut Champ Pants - softshell pants
Waterproof/breathable shell pants. Mine are made by Mammut

Bring a good wool cap and a couple sets of gloves of varying thickness. Some people like a buff or neck gaiter too.

These are some of the basics. Ask more questions if you want some more suggestions/advice.

Thanks-great info. Your list looks similar to what I had in mind, and it makes me feel like I'm on the right track.

I was planning to take:
2 sets winter gloves
wool beanie
North face hvent winter parka
north face nuptse jacket
thick fleece top
long sleeve wicking top
long johns (thin)
fleece pants
inversion (waterproof and ventible) ski pants
(also bringing winter boots, crampons, ice axe, etc.)

I like the idea of renting a better bag-gonna check that out with REI. Also, the other party members are experienced on the MR in winter.

Good advice from everyone and I agree on getting another bag. I have been at Upper Boy Scouts Lake when temps hit low teens--believe me it can be cold there.

I get very cold and use a -20 degree bag once winter hits. (With that said, that is much lower than most would require but as expressed I really get cold when sleeping in the snow.)

Some other thoughts:

1) A16 also rents gear if REI doesn't have what you need
2) When I have been very cold I boil water and put in a naglene (with a guaranteed tight lid). I place the naglene in my sleeping bag before entering. It allows me to warm once I get in the bag and the heat seems to stay. I sometimes add a tea bag for hot liquids later.
3)I also use a sleeping bag liner. It makes a difference and I can place it over my head if my nose gets cold. It doesn't feel as suffocating as the sleeping bag over my nose.
4) A sleeping pad makes a big difference--during the winter I have a light alpine pad with my thermarest on top.
5) Extra weight and snow make travel very slow. As Kurt said you will need to plan extra days for travel.

I was up on MR last Saturday. Spent the night before at Portal campground where it was in the 30's at night. Brought two bags---20 degree Western Mountaineering with vapor barrier and a North Face -20 degree top of the line bag I have used for over 20 years. My partner had a 20 degree three season bag which he tried to gin up with extra clothes and a space blanket---he was cold. I never pulled the 20 degree bag out, but instead used the big one, which is heavy but felt warm all night----down into the 20's or lower last Saturday up on the mountain. Rent a high loft, minus degree rated bag for January----don't fool around trying to piece together stuff to make a three season bag warmer. A good night's sleep is important, and the added insurance could save your life if you get your extra clothes wet or damp and then get stuck in bad weather up high for an extra day or two. Frankly, now that I think about what you have written, if you have not done deep winter overnight backpacking/climbing in snow, why are you beginning with a January climb of Whitney? In addition to a proper bag, you should go with a guide.

Any reason you are heading up in Jan? It is a pretty rough time of the year. You are either looking at light snow conditions that are just annoying and bordering on dangerous or many feet of unconsolidated snow that will require 4-5 days of suffering on the mountain in order to top out. I don't intend to discourage you because I too like to get out year round, but Jan is a pretty crappy time to get on the mountain. If your goal is to spend multiple nights in cold temps and building your winter overnight skills, then so be it, but if you are expecting to summit I suggest go light and fast and attempt a (long) dayhike or wait till March/April and enjoy yourself more.

Several years ago I experianced 0 degrees F at 08:00 on Thanksgiving morning at 12,000 feet. This did not include wind chill, we had the right gear and were quite comfy all night.
Another sleeping bag solution it to rent one at REI.

Here's my 0.02$

Down sleeping bags develop there insulating capability by the loft of the down fill. A good down bag will help retain the heat generated by your body

Wearing a lot of layers of clothing while in a down bag can restrict circulation to extremities especially your feet and can even make you colder. The down loft is a better insulator than layers of clothing. Too much clothing will reduce the amount of heat that gets refelcted by the down. I recommend not wearing a lot of layers in a sleeping bag. A dry, loose synthetic, silk or wool undergarment layer will give you the warmest and most comfortable rest in a good down bag.

Underneath your body the down-fill gets compressed and that decreases the insulating capability. Thats why a good insulating pad is so important especially if your camping on the snow.

Also avoid the temptation to spread extra clothing over the top of your bag. any weight on top will reduce the loft and the warmth provided by the bag.

I have just gotten into winter mtring (Gorgonio snow ascent, San Jacinto, etc.), and I do rock climb (trad and sport). I am going with 2 experienced people (one of which has done this route solo twice in the winter), and I definitely plan on deferring to their wisdom for the ascent. I have not camped out at altitude in the winter yet, but we are taking a 3 person 4 season tent.

Due to the much appreciated advice from you folks, I did just purchase an Alps Mountaineering 0 down bag that will hopefully fit the bill. After doing the MR this summer, I am interested in trying to do the ascent in each of the seasons. Frankly, it seems that the culoir should be easier with snow than it is with scree. Has anyone glissaded down the culoir below the notch? I know to not dare try that above the notch.