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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 353
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Posts: 353
I really enjoy both Russell routes that have been mentioned and rate them about class 3 b/c wink

Originally Posted By skydiveken
Off topic but am I the only one to notice that Peter Croft climbed E. Face, Fish hook arete and a class 4 on Mt. Carl Heller in one day and was disappointed about not getting to the portal store before it closed. WOW!
Yeah, I noticed that too. Pretty weak day for PC....probably had the sniffles grin

Here’s another astounding PC day….4 routes on Temple Crag (mid-left entry) and then "Ready for cocktail hour" cool


Joined: Apr 2007
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Wowsers!!

Joined: Feb 2003
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Joined: Feb 2003
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Both routes are great. You can have both. Just go up the East Ridge and down the South Face.

We found the East ridge convenient for summiting Carillon and then connecting to Russell. Also knowing that Norman Clyde's first ascent of Russell was via the East Ridge was inspiring.

After ascending the East Ridge we descended via the South Face, Right Side. Our ambitious goal was to get down Russell and then go up the north slope of Whitney. But the day we did this there were rain clouds over Whitney and it got a little late so we didn't get to include the third peak but we did use Bob Rockwell's traverse over the Whitney Russel Col to get back to Upper Boyscout Lake. It turned out to be a really nice loop.

Joined: Apr 2010
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Joined: Apr 2010
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Congrats on a nice trip and awesome TR. Could you describe in little more details the approach section between UBSL and south face? It looks like you ascended the gully right next to Fishhook Arete?

Thanks,
A.



Joined: Dec 2002
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Originally Posted By amax
Congrats on a nice trip and awesome TR. Could you describe in little more details the approach section between UBSL and south face? It looks like you ascended the gully right next to Fishhook Arete?

Thanks,
A.

As the map in my post above shows (red line), you can go up the bottom of the valley, favoring the right side after the first quarter of a mile. When you get almost to the headwall, turn sharply right and gain 300' or so on fine scrambling terrain. That puts you above the headwall, and it is a simple matter to then traverse over to the Col.

I had to scratch my head, wondering where that boulder field is that Richard mentions. The only possibility is a ~100' section next to that pothole lake. Takes 2 - 3 minutes at most to cross. The first time I did it (Richard was along), we stayed close to the lake. Now I skirt the lake more, and it is a non-issue.

And, yes to your last question.

Finally, on Rick F's comment: I, too, like loop trips. In this case, I prefer going up the south face and down the east ridge. Almost no loose terrain on the ascent, and, on the descent to Upper Boy Scout Lake, the scree helps these old knees a lot.

Joined: Oct 2005
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Originally Posted By Bob R
…. I prefer going up the south face and down the east ridge. Almost no loose terrain on the ascent…...
Hehe…nice sandbag whistle
Looking down the south face gully from just below the final chimney


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White Mountain/
Barcroft Station

Elev 12,410’

Upper Tyndall Creek
Elev 11,441’

Crabtree Meadows
Elev 10,700’

Cottonwood Lakes
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Lone Pine
Elev. 3,727’

Hunter Mountain
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Death Valley/
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Elev. -193’

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