Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Dr. Bob R, Desperado, SierraSam, Peakjunkie, Spiderman7238, Whitneyaddict

Eisenbacher Ledges – after reading every stitch of beta on this website (and all the fantastic link photos), plus every guidebook and topo map available, I’m still not 100% certain if the Eisenbacher Ledges traverses to the left or right…and is it one (1) traverse, or more?

Please reply…that means you too Dr. Bob R, Desperado, SierraSam, Peakjunkie, Spiderman7238, Whitneyaddict …

~Swifty

The E ledges zig-zag back and forth and there is more than one route (best to take the one that goes farthest back from the edge if you're worried about the exposure). I'm going from memory here, so somebody please correct me if I've misrecalled, but I believe that it zigs to the climbers right immediately after you start up and goes some distance (75 - 100 yards ??) before the first turn to the left. Look for cairns, hiking paths and footprints in the dirt to help guide you, but recognize that some people do get off route. I've not found it that difficut to find the route when on on the ledges, though have made a few wrong turns and had to backtrack, especially on the way down. If you get to a place that looks like a very tough climb with too much exposure, you are probably in the wrong place and shoulod backtrack to the last clear path and try a different route.

On the way up, make sure that you pay attention to the landmarks for turns and build some cairns if you want to make the descent easier. Especially pay attention to the spot where you enter the ledges, since I find this is the toughest spot to find on the way back. Also, consider bringing some rope in case you are not comfortable climbing with your pack in spots on the way down.

There are usually a few people that you can follow or ask for help, though I would not depend on this since it is a lightly traveled route.

What is "beta"? I see that a lot.

"beta" is a word that kind of means information from peoples experiences. I understand it came out of the jargon of the climbing world

Crystal, "beta" is a term used in climbing/mountaineering circles for obtaining advanced information or knowledge for planning a trip/climbing route and also to negotiate weather conditions, gear, etc. Most info from this board is considered "beta."

Swifty, the E-ledges immediately starts traversing right for ~100 yds after crossing the creek and reaching the wall. When it looks easy enough, go up a little, only ~5ft. and then start traversing back left towards LBSL. What's more important is knowing the way back down. I see so many people miss the turn back right when descending.

FYI, the word "beta" comes from the old video type "Betamax" (before VHS became the standard.) Kinda like "watch in on Beta before doing the real thing..."

The ledges are named the Ebersbacher Ledges, not Eisenbacher. If you do a Google search for "Ebersbacher Ledges", you will find at least 100 hits, but none on eisenbacher.

Click here for a link to the <a href="http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&q=%22ebersbacher+ledges%22&btnG=Google+Search" target=_new>Google search.</a>

I always thought Beta came from "beta test", which means first-hand experiences with brand new, unreleased products or software. And stretching into the climbing world or any other place, it would generally mean first-hand or personal experiences.

Sierra Sam and Ntuit, mucho gracias for the positive straight forward reply...I just got back from the Dolomites in Italy and the Adirondaks in NY, so if you want some fantastic beta on those two places, e-mail me at charles@lenhoff.com...thanks again.

~Swifty

As I am told...Beta comes from a quote by Jack Mileski, a Gunks old timer. Apparently he had been watching a video of someone doing a FA somewhere in the early 80's. It was a Betamax machine, and the term rose from there.

BV.

Swifty,All the beta that Sierra Sam gave you is right on the money.As soon as you reach the pine tree after crossing the stream, start working right and watch for places to move "up". There are a couple of variations of the route here.Again, recalling where you exit is critical. On the return it is very difficult to spot where you exited the ledges unless you make a good mental note of the area before you leave it. Turn around as if you are coming back from the summit and take a good look at the approach.Also be very careful on your return at the top of the ledges. This area has a lot of loose scree at the edge of the ledges. If you're paying attention you can easily avoid it.The ledges are totally doable. Have fun!!

A good description of the ledges. Like said pay attention to wear you come up. If not it is possible to miss it on the way down and go an extra 50-100 feet into an area you cannot climb back down. Once you get on the top of the ledges you will turn left again (westward) and you will start uphill. You will pass through a series of trees and there are multiple use trails weaving in and out. Staying to the right of the large boulder places you closer to the wall and further away from the ledge. It eventually merges into a trail going up toward Lower Boy Scout Lake. It will work out fine for you.

When I was learning climbing in the '80 one of the vital pieces of information passed on from crusty old timer to young grasshopper was that to ask for an explanation, or preview, of a route, you asked for the Beta, as in Betamax.

I believe this predated the term beta testing as used in the software world by a couple of years.

Here's my description. It may help to look at <a href="http://members12.clubphoto.com/robert634908/970354">some pictures</a>. E. L. pictures are numbers 17 - 34.

From the famous foxtail pine the route goes east, and then does a 180 to head west again. One switchback.

No. 17 shows climbing up to the pine. From here, walk about 200' east and then climb left and up on a slanting ledge for about 10' (nos. 32 - 34). This is the spot that can be missed on the descent. There is a small wall of rocks to keep people from continuing east, but it apparently doesn't work all the time.

Above the switchback, the old use trail continued close to the edge and was a little unnerving because a lot of it was dirt "ball bearings" on granite slab. But after a fatality a few years ago, the FS constructed a trail which makes a bee-line for the steep rock face to the north, and away from the edge. This new trail is a big improvement.

There are some minor variations that can be done here and there, but I believe this is the easiest path, and one that minimizes what little exposure there is.

On the descent, I see a lot of footprints indicating that many people miss the new route. A key is two stark pine tree stalks, side-by-side and about 15' tall. They were the signposts showing the way, but now that is the "old way." If you get to them, you should consider scrambling up (north) to get on the better, and newer, path.

Geez, what more could I add to all that. Definitely check out Bob Rs pictures. Keep in mind, it isn't as hard as some say. The trail essentially guided me to the base of the ledges, then you just follow the logical line of least resistance. If it feels too hard to be class 3, you're off route. The pine is at the left side of the ledge that you traverse left to right. It is clearly visible at the top of the canyon just before the canyon is blocked by all the willows/alders. Climb up to the tree about 10 feet, traverse right 100 feet or so on a sidewalk size ledge, step up a few feet, traverse right a few more feet, then step up a few feet. At this point you are on another huge ledge. Traverse left and you'll eventually end up on either the upper or lower trails, which join uyp anyway. Also, even if you blow it and miss the ledges completely, you'll just have to bushwhack a little more on your way to LBSL. Take your time, watch your step, and its no big deal.

I was just up there most of last week (9/6 - 9/11) doing the East Face, East Buttress, Carillon & East Ridge of Russell.

The hike up the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek has gotten very well defined and almost easy. There were more cairns than I would have liked to seen. You really just have to connect the cairns to the top.

As for the ledges, I found them even easier than I remembered them. After you cross the creek, follow the headwall uphill for a short while. You'll need to use some roots to work your way up to the start of the actual ledges. Once at the start look up and right. There is about 50 feet of class 3 climbing up to the foxtail pine. Once at the pine head right for about 150 feel, you then step up about 5 feet and go behind a medium size boulder heading right again for about another 150 feet. You will then look up the wall and should see some steps (closely spaced ledges). Head up these and turn left (there is only 1 switchback on the ledges).

I found it best to head up high toward the headwall and stay as high as possible (less scree, crap you have to climb over/thru). We didn't do this on the approach, but did it on the descent and I found it much easier.

Hope this helps and good luck.