Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board East Face Conditions/Direct East Face

A group of us are traveling down from Seattle to Whitney on Spring Break and plan on arriving there around March 24th after running up Shasta on the way down.

Myself and a friend wish to do the East Face, or even the East Face Direct, depending on route conditions, crowds, etc.

What is the east face like that time of year? Will we run into ice or snow on the route? What has the snowpack been like?

I know that the Direct East Face is a Grade V, and the leader is damn strong, and we are quick, but not sure if we will have enough light that tinme of year to run up 13? pitches along with the aiding. Anysight would be appreciated.

Also, is it hard to get to the trailhead that time of year or do they keep the roads plowed pretty good?

While I always wished to do the East Face or Buttress, I never got the chance. But, I looked up the data and see Secor (High Sierra, Peaks, Passes and Trails) says "most parties do it in 6 hours (ascent)."

There's a good (summer) account by Norman Clyde found in some old Sierra Club magazines, or in Wheelock (original book's author) and Benti's Whitney guide.

Most of that occurs in the summer, though. The recent weather will dictate conditions, which can change from day to day. The High Sierra snowpack is running about normal or a bit less. Roads, check the messages on this board, which seem up-to-date. The road is not plowed, and there have been reports of effective closure past a certain point.

Cold weather rock climbing will naturally take longer, so I'd be equipped for a bivy. That means weight, so it'll take longer yet.

You'd best be advised that climbers have been killed here, attempting just what you're planning. Apparently, there can be avalanches. Rockfall is worse in the winter, too.

Maybe someone will have good photos, and the Reno-Gazette Journal says to be posting their late January climb of the MR (see post by Brian) on their website.

Good luck!

RUN up shasta?

"RUN up Shasta"?
-----------------
Sure, a 1 day ascent on Shasta is the way to go, as we did the 2 day deal a few years ago and decided that on such peaks that it seems easier to do the go light and fast thing. We did that On Mt Adams up here late last year and it proved to be more efficient and more fun.

Not to say that the mountain experience was not fun, and camping out on glaciers and stuff are cool, but after the first time, it gets redundant unless its a different route

But that plan is out since we'll be coming down via seattle to portland to reno then whitney. A pitstop in bishop and bouldering is a definite though!-----------------------------

So does everyone agree that the rock routes like the EF, EF Direct, and the East Buttress will be free of ice? That is a major concern for 2 of us that want to get our hands on some of that perfect granite. We really want to do a rcok route more than the mountaineers route.

But I assume doing the EF Direct would be way too committing since it is a grade 4 or 5? With the short amount of daylight at the end of March I think going for a grade 3 climb might be better.

Does anyone out there have suggestions for a good quality rock route up the face that ranges from 5.7-5.10, even with C1-2, Grade 2-3? That's all we really want, especially if it is a route that rarely has snow and ice.

Thanks to anyone for input on this thread!

scott

>Does anyone out there have suggestions for a
>good quality rock route up the face that ranges
>from 5.7-5.10, even with C1-2, Grade 2-3? That's
>all we really want, especially if it is a route
>that rarely has snow and ice.

Grade II/III, dry, quality rock climbing to 5.10? In late March? Sounds like you want to visit Yosemite Valley or the Red Rocks, not the Sierra high country. That's not to say you wouldn't find dry climbing on Whitney. Nor is it to imply that Yosemite wouldn't be wet or even snowy that time of year. The fact is, the vagaries of weather make it impossible for anybody here or anywhere to offer you the assurances you seek. Even your plans for Shasta could be thwarted.

Check the conditions and weather forecast right before you go and then still remain flexible. There are other excellent climbs on nearby peaks, the cragging, sport climbing and bouldering on the east side is very good, and if nothing else, it's a wonderful place just to hang out, drink a cup of coffee, and catch up on your reading.

Good luck with your plans.

We were there at the end of January, and the East Face looked great. North facing slopes were plastered in perfect ice, while the East Face was bone dry. On our way to the mountaineers route we passed two climbers who summitted via the East Face and spent the night on the summit, before walking off on the mountaineers route. We've had some snow since then, but I'd suspect the East Face is still dry.
If you've never been before, make sure you stop by Owens River Gorge on your way back North. It's between Bishop and Mammoth...the climbing is Sick!!!