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#66037 08/05/09 02:19 PM
Joined: Sep 2007
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What is considered to be the least technical route up Russell?
I know the East Ridge is probably the answer with not much more then class 3, but the reports and pictures of the exposure is giving our group some hesitation. Not sure if all of us would be ok with 1000 foot drop offs on both sides.
We are not technical climbers, but have done some 14ers and Mt. Ritter last year.
Any other routes up that you guys recommend?

Thanks

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The east ridge is the easiest way up. It has lots of class 3, plenty of exposure, and some routefinding. However, it isn't as difficult as some of the pictures suggest.

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If there's one thing I've come to learn time and time again this past year on almost all class 3 climbs I've done is the pictures and videos I see on the internet -- while they convey a general idea of what to expect -- are not what they seem once you are actually on the rock climbing. Usually they turn out not as bad as the pictures/videos convey.

I think as long as your group is very comfortable on class 3 rock and there are lots of good hand and footholds, you should be alright.

I suppose Mt. Russell would not be a good place for any member of your group to be doing their 1st or 2nd or even 3rd class 3 climb.

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Quote:
What is considered to be the least technical route up Russell?


I'd cast a vote for the South Face, Right Side. It's mostly a scree slog, so it isn't the easiest from a physical standpoint, but the few technical moves required probably make it the easiest from a climbing standpoint.

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Thanks guys. I appreciate the feedback.
I like the idea of the South Face Right Side after researching it.

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I much prefered the exposure of the East ridge than the between the legs esposure of the south wall. I guess it depends how you like your exposure - vertical or horizontal.


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I plan to summit Whitney via the MR route I had originally planned to camp at Iceberg Lake. However if time allows I would also like to summit Russell-

-I have been following this thread. Is there a traverse to Russell and back down to Iceberg--or perhaps camp at Upper Boyscout for a longer summit to Whitney -- traverse and back down.

Any advice?


It's just better in the mountains
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Great shot Tom...I'm getting vertigo just looking at this pic! LOL


Moved to Bishop in 2012 and haven't looked back since...
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I have a group of four planning to camp at Iceberg and summit Russell on Aug 15, and Whitney MR on Aug 16. The feedback from Sierra Scrambles is that it is very doable. We've done the MR, so that will be easy. Everyone cautioned about the exposure on Russell, but that there were solid foot and hand holds. The route finding is easy enough but does require some thought.

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Wow, that is an awesome shot. I am assuming that is the East Ridge.
It seems that the East Ridge exposure would last much longer then the South Face last 100 feet. I guess we'll find out in late September. Thanks everyone for the input.

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If you want to live life to it's fullest take the East Ridge, it's very exciting. Did it the first time solo. South Face is a long boring slog till you get to the headwall toward the top.

Phil


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