Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Thoughts about Mt. Shasta

Did you really enjoy climbing Clear Creek route in August? It must have been awful
Clear Creek is an early season route...
You can still try to climb West Face Gully as it preserves more snow than any route from the south. However, it will probably have large talus sections as well right now. I climbed it back in early July and it already showed some signs of melting.

I think that the only enjoyable experience on Shasta right now will be from the north side (glaciers). 4xsummit's post says it all.

Hello Misha,

Glad to hear you took care of Tyndall. Avalanch Gulch was the easier choice (less milage, less elevation gain, easier route due to snow). I was looking for a personal challenge. Having been turned back at 13k ft here before, reading the Clear Creek horror stories, it made it appealing. I turned it up a notch by making it a 1-day solo hike. Best wishes on your next endeavour..

Javier
Genesis 1:1

Hey Javier,
How do you know Tyndall? SP.COM?

Misha

Javier,
BTW, if you are looking for a challenge, join me on the Whitney-Russell traverse in October!
We will climb MR, downclimb North slope, go over Whitney-Carillon saddle, climb South Face of Russell, downclimb East Ridge, bag Carillon on the way out and call it a day.

We are planning a Winter ascent of Williamson via George Creek this December as well
This should be quite a suffering

Misha

Javier,

You stated "reading the Clear Creek horror stories...made it more appealing." I agree with you. By the way, later this summer marks 100 years since the first horse was ridden to the top of Mount Shasta. Yes, you guessed it.....by the Clear Creek route.

Best wishes, Jim F

Here's a link to some photos of Shasta from 2000.

http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?c=15868y.wsfmt4n&x=0&y=-eoouii

BTW, the helecopter was there to pick up a climber who lost control while glissading down through the Red Banks (not a good idea - down climb it). Not only did he injure one of his legs, he let go of his axe (he was using a leash) and it whacked him a few times (not a pretty sight!).

He should not have glissaded with his crampons on! This is the most common reason for accidents on Shasta. Some people just lack common sense.

There is nothing wrong with glissading through Red Banks if you know what you are doing.

Richard-
Great pictures....I love Mt Shasta-it is so beautiful there....what time of year was your hike?
Barb

The climber who was injured WAS NOT wearing crampons. He had enough sense to take them off prior to the glissade. He just should have kept them on until after he climbed down through the Red Banks.

Thanks for the comments about the pictures. I've been up Shasta twice and am looking forward to another attempt. When the weather cooperates, it's got some great views. And, when the snow conditions are right, a descent down the West Face is one wild ride!

I agree, West Face is a gem. You can find our ascent pictures from the 4th of July weekend this year here: http://www.cybermont.com/trips.html

Cool pics!

Were you part of a large group, or were there just a lot of parties on the route? We did it at about the same time of year in 2000 and had the route to ourselves. We also seemed to have more snow.