Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Stemwinder 9/20/08

My friend Dave G and i climbed Stemwinder the week before last. My first time on it. It was a thrill to say the least. Only the second time i have put on rock shoes all summer. I spend more time in my hiking boots.

Pix are here: http://picasaweb.google.com/ryan.norma81/StemwinderAThrillAndAChill#

norma

Wow! Awesome story/pics and good on you for making that climb - you're brave :-)

Norma

Two words. YOU ROCK! Fantastic pix and TR. Can't wait to get back on a mountain with you!!!

MC

Thanks MC and Blooty! The WPSMB hike/bbq looked like it was great fun too!

Norma.. how totally awesome!!! AND you managed to answer a question Mom and I had about something she'd seen both times we've been on Whitney. It goes something like this:

"Hey Chris.."
"Yea Mom"
"Do you see that.. over there.. through the trees on the otherside of the meadow?"
"Um.. it looks kinda like a building Mom..."
"Thats what I thought.. what in the world is it?"
"Um.. it looks kinda outta place, doesn't it?"
"I wonder what it is..."

TADA!!! It's the Ranger Cabin above Outpost Camp!!!! Thanks Norma!!!!

Congratulations on your daring feat. Won't catch me up there!

I have always wanted to know where that ranger cabin was near Outpost Camp! I knew of the "general" vicinity, but never exactly sure where. I would see rangers coming out of the "spring" area and then vanish into thin air. The other pictures you took verified that location.

Now I know.

Norma,

Awesome climb. Looks like quite a blast. I will have to hit that one up next time i'm up there.

Congrats

+ @ti2d and southswell,

thanx!

my thanx goes to Dave for inviting and encouraging me, bringing up most of the pro to make it happen and his great belays. Dave rocks!

norma

Several people have contacted me today, after having seen Norma's post, with an interest of climbing the Stemwinder route on Thor. I feel like I’d be remiss if I didn’t sound a word of caution.

While it’s true that most of the route is class 3/4, and that Secor rates the most difficult part at “only” 5.4, this is a serious alpine rock climb and should not be taken lightly. A fall at many points along the route would certainly be fatal. It requires proficiency in roped technical climbing, has some pretty wild exposure in spots, and should in no way be compared to a hike/scramble such as the MR. It is also fairly committing, in that you cannot decide to just turn around if you get scared. The safest way to climb it the first time is with a guide or a partner you trust that has the skills and knows the route.

OK, feeling better now having made my disclaimer, I too had an awesome time, Norma was an excellent partner and here are my pics:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/21042415@N02/sets/72157607633655300/detail/



Dave

Awesome job, Norma and Dave! That does look like a solid challenge and a lot of fun! Congrats on a fun day!

-L

thanx laura!

i don't usually post TR's, but somehow this one felt worthy. it was indeed a challenge and once my feet were on solid ground, i was able to admit that i did have fun.

thanx dave for posting the words of caution. even though i tried to make light of my experience in my captions, it was a day of serious concentration with gratefully a successful ascent.

yep, it was a very cool day!

Oh, they're ALL worthy in one form or another, even if it's "just" lessons learned. Funny thought: when we were below Dragon last weekend, Brent and I were looking at the face of spire by Lilly Pass and I was wondering aloud if any of the cracks "went". Craaziness, I tell you!!

Congrats again!

-L

Norma: I loved your pictures of the Stemwinder route. I have been considering the route since Rick Kent went up it a year or so.

Besides rope, harness and rock climbing shoes, what kind of pro did you use.

I didn't see any pictures of a rack, cams or nuts?

as i said on Richard's board, besides my harness and two locking 'biners the other pro i brought was dave.

i will let dave tell you exactly what we used...

Kent, the rack I brought for this consisted of a couple of Camalots (pretty sure they were a #2 & #2.5), a set of stoppers (which I never used), several slings and a cordalette to build an anchor for Norma to belay me across the traverse. The rope was an 8mm X 30m.

Most parties only rope up in two spots: The crux chimney at the start of the route and at the traverse. The chimney has a pin near the bottom which will protect you from falling completely off the face, but you will want to put in a piece or two as you go up. I didn't put anything in above the traverse, but you could if you wanted. At the top of the trough leading up from the traverse is another pin which I hadn't noticed being there before. It was just out of reach for the 30m rope, so I girth-hitched some slings together and was just able to clip on to it. If you back that up with the cams, you'll have a nice anchor with which to bring your partner up.

The route is spectacular with just enough exposure to get your blood pumping, yet the actual climbing is of a moderate degree. If you need more info, just PM me.