Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Thoughts about Mt. Shasta

I've always wanted to do Mt. Shasta, which is another 14-er in California. I've read quite a bit about it. It's a class 2-3 climb with avalanche danger and permanent snow field. I'd be interested to hear other people who have done Shasta, even if you haven't summited. I'm thinking of just doing half of it this year, just up to the point where you need ice axe + crampons. I assume it's way tougher than Whitney. I'd be interested to hear personal experiences about Shasta, if anyone has the time to post them.

Grand Canyon Hiker, I wouldn't describe the climb as way tougher than Whitney, but much more dangerous. Since Shasta is an isolated 14er, it often makes its own weather. Please be sure your crampons fit properly, and you know how to put them on safely. Also, the ice axe is a life-saving tool, but can be a death-dealing instrument or cause serious injury if you are not trained. You should know how to ice arrest in all six positions as instinctively as possible. Also, it is normal, when there is plenty of snow on the slopes, to glissade down from the summit. Be sure you know how to control your speed with your ice axe.

Shasta is a great climb. As long as you are prepared, go for it!

I have personally observed a number of rock and snow avalanches on Shasta. Thankfully, no one was injured or killed. I've also had softball-size rocks zooming by my head at more than 100 miles an hour that I have had to dodge, no thanks to climbers above me.

Wayne: thank you for the interesting input. What about just trying the first 5 miles and turning around before you need the ice axe and crampons? I'm not a technical climber, the most difficult technical climb I've ever done is the mtn.'ers route at Whitney. Shasta is way tougher than that, I know. Thanks again.

If you have the time, which you apparently do, that sounds like a good idea to check the route or routes you would like to do. However, Shasta is so far for most of us (in southern California), its kind of shame to spend all the time to get there and not do the climb. If you could hook up with experienced climbers, of which there are plenty on Shasta, consider doing the whole thing.

GCH,

I have a friend that just hiked/climbed Shasta recently. I haven't traded stories with him since I haven't hiked Whitney yet (8/16-8/17). Here's a link you may find interesting http://www.climbingmtshasta.org/

My Dad, a friend his age, and I, attempted Shasta a few years back. My Dad and I summited but the third member went back down from base camp with altitude sickness. The climb from base camp was steeper than anything on Whitney and is mostly on ice/snow. Full crampons, sturdy boots, and axe are essential all year long. Although we didn't experience any rock fall enough climbers report this that a helmet would be smart also.

While the glacier ascent is steep enough to be a hazard, I don't think it warranted roping up as we saw many parties doing. Maybe they were practicing their technique. Even a beginner would be able to do a self arrest there.

A much greater hazard and more likely than rock fall or other problems on the ice field is the weather. I believe something like 50% of attempts are turned around by weather, so we count ourselves very lucky to make it up on our first attempt. We did witness the famous Shasta weather shortly after returning to camp after summiting, with a cloudless day changing in about 90 minutes to thunderstorm, hail, high winds, and rain. This is really the thing to be willing to accept when you attempt Shasta: you may have to ditch your attempt at the first sign of weather. Unfortunately, we were not prepared, and had pitched an A-frame tent. It was about to shred in the wind so we removed the poles and made a 1-foot high hanging bivy out of it, behind the rock walls of our shelter, which we hid in until morning. Yes, we were a little claustrophobic.

Great info, everyone. Thanks so much. I spoke for a half hour with a ranger by Shasta and he told me the percentage of climbers who actually summit is only 18%. That seems real small to me. He said the weather is unbelievably unpredictable and violent at the drop of a hat. I live in Southern Ca. but am a teacher, so I have the summers off. Maybe I will try it in August, but I will have to get ice axe courses first!

The standard route up Shasta is no more difficult than the mountaineers route up Whitney. I would even say that it is easier, though it does require crampons. There is really only one steep section where it would be critical to know self-arrest techniques: the chutes just above the 'heart' and they are quite short. This time of year, the snow is sun-cupped so long fall is unlikely even if you didn't know how to self-arrest. From what I've seen, the most injuries are when people are glissading down with their crampons on and they twist an ankle.

The weather on Shasta does change quickly, though no more so than Whitney. I have been up there in some mean storms in the summer when everyone is hunkered down on the mountain. If you can wait it out, however, the bad weather usually only lasts one day this time of year and the following day is generally great. Like Whitney, T-storms can come up suddenly in the afternoon.

Grand Canyon Hiker:
Two years ago I climbed Shasta using one of the glacier routes. The first thing that gets to you is how massive the mountain is. You can see it from nearly 100 miles away. If you have never had training in crampon or ice axe use, you should not attempt to use either of these tools. I have seen more than one person put a crampon into a calf muscle or ankel-not a pretty site. We took three days to do the climb. Day one (90 degrees as Shasta City) allowed us to get to 8,500' to put up a base camp. Up at 3:00am the next morning for an alpine ascent, summited at 9:20am, where the weather was 20 degees with 50 mph winds. Came back to base camp by 4:00pm, made dinner and went to sleep at 6:00pm not to waken til 6:00 the next morning. We were roped together at all times as you don't want to slip on the snow/ice and cover some 6,000 of same w/o protection. Without proper crampon training, you will snap your ankle in half if you don't keep them up during a fall. And you wouldn't want to land on your ice axe. Problem with the main trail is that once it warms up during the day, the rocks become loose and come down from above. If you don't have a helmet, you could find yourself in a world of hurt. I know of someone who took a rock to a shoulder and dislocated it in an instant. She was lucky that that is all that happened to her. If you want to do Shasta, I strongly suggest one of the guiding services such as Shasta Mtn. Guides. They will do some training, check to make sure you have the right gear, and keep you safe, or as safe as one can be on Shasta. I will say this, I will never have that feeling again as I did when I stood at 14,000' at the top of that glacier and looked down and around. Spectacular to say the least. Good luck and safe climbing. Shasta is an incredible climb.

Grand canyon hiker-

My boyfriend and I did a 1-day summit of Mt Shasta last summer in August via the Avalanche Gulch route up from Bunny Flats. It was in my opinion about as hard as the mountaineer's route on Whitney. The snowfield in the area above Helen Lake and in the area known as the Heart was long but not particularly difficult-just requires crampons and ice axe. The chutes in the area known as the Red Banks were a bit steep and made my heart race a couple of times. The summit is beautiful though, and we were able to glissade down in 10 minutes what took us 3 hours to climb! The scenery there is breathtakingly beautiful and if you are on the mountain when the sun is coming up be sure to look for the mountain shadow-it is quite a sight!! By the way we started out at about 11pm. If you are interested in pictures of the route e-mail me at bbinsd@aol.com

Barb

Boy, thanks for all the great input. If you guys say that Shasta is about as difficult as the Mtn. route to Whitney, then maybe I should try it in mid-August. I am reasonably good with an ice axe and have crampons which have always done fine. I appreciate all the info, thanks to all.

IMO - DO NOT try it in mid/late August. At that time, it is usually an awful talus scree unless you take one of the glacier routes from the North.

GCHiker,

Info that might be helpful...On Sat Aug 16th with picture perfect conditions I day hiked/ summited Mt Shasta via Clear Creek Trail Head. 13-14 mile talus round trip. Elevation gain = 7700 ft. I noticed folks coming up Avalanch Gulch with ice ax/crampons.

Javier
Genesis 1:1

I summited Shasta a few years ago by the Hotlam/Bolam route. Even by the Avalanche Gulch route, the climb requires far more mental and physical focus than Whitney, due to the steep terrain and objective hazards. Don't believe anyone who says it's not hard or technical.

Having said that, you mentioned you might go only as far as you can go without crampons and ice ax. I personally wouldn't do it if it would cost me an airline ticket and rental car, simply because it's nothing but a pretty but otherwise boring hike. It's a good workout, of course, with spectacular scenery, but if not for the steep snow and ice above it would be much like a number of other hikes closer to home.

Now if you happened to be up there anyway on other business...well, then it's worth the side trip, because it really is a magnificent mountain!

I'm going to be travelling by Mount Shasta in mid-September and was hoping to climb it, but after everything I've heard it sounds like September would be about the worst time to do it. It sounds like this would be about the peak time for rockfall and loose talus/scree and because of that nobody does this in September. Is this an accurate assessment? I've basically talked myself out if it but would like to hear of anyone's experiences who might have done it in Sept.

-Rick

Shasta is a great mountain. Yes, do give it a recon, and see why you need ice axe and crampons. Most Californians will never know real ice!

I used to lead groups up the peak, and considered it the most fun thing to do. It's a different beauty than the High Sierra, and the feeling is magnificent. You can summit in about 8 hours (average), and have a quick glissade down. I think Backpacker magazine rated this the top fun backcountry thrill, or something. I do a lot of glissading, and it is now ho-hum to me, but I see other people whooping and yelling.

Aside from the weather, if you can do Whitney, especially if by the MR, you should be able to do Shasta. Just take the time to learn snow climbing with gear. Yes, it can be dangerous, but just learn it right. Watch out for "friends."

You might be amazed at how many novices try this mountain. It took me three tries before I finally summited, while I did Whitney my first time. The winds can be terrible.

When June rolls around again, I'd love to make my 5X. Snow, however frozen, is far easier to climb up than the loose rubble underneath. I have some text and photos on my website at http://webs.lanset.com/pyamagata. Click on Pete's Classic Leads.

Hey Rick, if you love ice, September is a great time! The glaciers on the east and north sides are bare ice, and deep blue. The crevasses are open (as they will be), so your chances of not falling through a snowbridge into one are the best.

I thought doing the Hotlum Icefall with a Sierra Club group was almost the best mountaineering experience I ever had! Lots of people to explore the seracs and crevasses. You do have to know what you're doing, and never do this alone or with under six people (2 rope teams), preferably.

Everyone else is right, with the usual route. Climbing on snow is far easier and better. While groups do do that to avoid the equipment aspect, I'd think it was miserable. 7,000' gain and loss on scree. Yuck!

Javier,

Your post was appreciated.

I have considered trying the Clear Creek route in late August. Your post seems to imply that under current conditions on this route it is safe to leave an ice ax and crampons in the car.
Is this the case? How much snow did you cross on the way to the summit?

Your feedback would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim F.

The standard beginner route / highway is avalanche gulch and I would not reccommend any other routes unless you have someone along that knows what they are doing. People get in trouble when the weather moves in and they got off route. Avalanche gulch is patrolled by the wilderness rangers and is obvious for routefinding since there is a use trail and tracks in the snow all the way. However if a storm comes in and visibility goes to nill you better have a compass and map. People die walking off the summit in the wrong direction.

The key to success is timing. Walking on snow is much easier than rock and talus. This year the late snows made the avalanche route passable later but it will still be less than ideal now with increased rockfall danger. If you are in excellent shape go for it. Get up and back past the redbanks before noon or be prepared to dodge rocks. The first time we tried it was about 5 years ago in October when there was very little snow. What a torturous hike that was up talus slopes and the heart and the redbanks hurdled boulders past us at 100 miles an hour. When one the size of a volkswagon rolled by we began to question our sanity and we ended up turning back at the top of the red banks due to exhaustion and the 100 mile an hour winds on the summit plateu. There is a great book by a guy named Steve Lewis I think that will tell you all you need - REI carries it. I have another book called something like 1000 California hikes that describes this route and the author broke her ankle while on this hike due to being hit by a falling boulder.

You can get lucky and have great weather and its a relatively straightforward hike if you are in great shape but always be prepared for the worst. Never glissade with crampons on. I would wait for Jume if I were you although if you have time a trip to scope it out would be fun and you'll be able to hike up to lake Helen without hitting snow. It's kind of the equivalent of trail crest where people sleep out in miserable conditions higher on the mountain. I prefer it as a long torcherous day hike so I don't have to carry gear and the glissade down is worth the whole trip. This late in the year you'll lose most of the glissade since the snow is history.

A good 2-3 day trip would be a hike to at least the sierra club horse camp and then head over to nearby under visited Lassen National park and take a stroll up Lassen for a great Shasta view and don't forget Brokeoff mtn for a really beautiful hike that will get the quads burning a little.

Hello Jim F,

Other than a minor snow patch route is snow free. TH to tree line is a breeze. Above it awaits a disagreable-loose talus hike. The spring above the treeline is a good place for a refill. Pls be aware of your decend route and be prepared if weather deteriorates as it could determine your success. Overall, the 1-day solo hike was satisfying.

Javier
Genesis 1:1