Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Ice Axe and Crampons

Hi All,

I will be hiking Whitney for the first time this weekend (Friday - Monday). I'm going with a group of experienced hikers who do the trip every year so I feel very comfortable with them. I do have a couple of questions on gear, though, and I'm hoping someone here on the Portal message boards can help me out. I have been told that we will need to use an ice axe and crampons. I looked all over LA and there are no stores in LA that rent this equipment. I am not opposed to buying the gear, but not sure if I want to incur the expense if this is something I can rent somewhere in Lone Pine. My questions to you guys are:

1) Is there somewhere in Lone Pine where I'd be able to rent an ice axe and crampons? Or is this something I should bite the bullet and just purchase before hand?

2) Based on the weather this past weekend, do you think ice axe and crampons are going to be necessary

My other question is in regards to hiking poles. Are these something that I'd be able to rent in Lone Pine as well? I want to make sure all my bases are covered before I leave town so any insight would be great.

Thank you!

Lindsay

Hi Lindsay,
I am going up on Thursday, with plans of a summit hike on Friday. We can give you up to date conditions reports back at camp, look for us in a yellow Taj3 REI tent. We will most likely be camped out at 10K, Outpost camp I think it is called.

based on the reports we've read, we are taking trekking poles and crampons. Ice axe is not coming with me, as many have told us it is more dangerous to have it if you don't know how to use it.

Read this area on Orientation notes for Whitney first timers. Based on the info here there is a place in Lone pine for rentals.
http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/34030#C3

Good luck and see you up there.

Sam

I would say exactly the opposite. If I could only bring one piece of gear it would be an ice axe and not crampons. If you trip while descending steep snow in your crampons, don't expect your trekking pole to stop your fall. An ice axe when properly used is much more useful and a safety item than just a pair of crampons.

I am not trying to be judgmental, but it scares me that you plan to bring just poles and crampons based on what people on a message board tell you and that the message you took away was that the ice axe will be what is dangerous.

Hi Scott,

I've talked to three REI stores in LA, Northridge, Santa Monica, and Montrose... All said the same thing, having an ice axe and not knowing how to use is can get you in more dangerous situation than not having an ice axe and not getting yourself in terrain that you are not comfortable with. Also nobody at the store would teach us how to properly use it due to liability. So if we can make it with crampons and trekking poles we'll go, if not we live to tell our story on this board and attempt it again.

We did Baden powell and Baldy (bee lined to the top) without an ice axe and we did fairly well. We are not seasoned hikers, but we've done a hike every other week since February based on an REI class. If it gets hairy, we'll return to camp for a warm dinner.

Sam

Depends a lot on what your hiking partners say you need. If they have used crampons and ax the previous times and you have never used either, I'd suggest you take trek poles and stop when the snow gets too steep for your comfort. Settle in someplace nice, get comfy, make some snow cones (take syrup), read a good book while bundled up and wait for their return. Half a trip is better than none at all.

There will be snow at least on the steeper part of the trail - over the switchbacks. You can expect snow cover from around 11,000' and above. The snow will be soft enough to kick steps in the afternoon. Also means it will be soft enough to slip out of and take a ride. Especially on the way down when your legs are rubbery.

Many people have made it up kicking snow placement spots for boots. Many have used crampons mainly to keep upright. Is it smart? Is it safe? Its your trip.

An ax becomes a useful tool if you have sufficient time to use it in practice of a self arrest - stopping or controlling an unplanned descent. Otherwise its ok for a little help on steeper slopes or traverses where it is handy to have another anchor point. You plunge the long point-tip into the snow for support. Just don't consider it will be much help if you slip. Put the treks in your pack.

I can loan you an ice ax and crampons that may or may not fit your boots. The trick is memorizing how they go on your boots - the straps.

REI on Santa Anita, east of Pasadena rents both. Or did, call ahead. Take your boots to make sure you get the right kind/size.

I'll second Scott L's reply. If conditions are such that you need crampons, then you need an axe. I would also add that you should have a helmet too.
When you snag a gaiter with a crampon, poles will be useless. And believe me, it happens quick.
Do yourself and your family a favor and learn how to arrest with the axe. I had 2 climbing partners that had to self arrest ...... one succeeded and one didn't.

I will be up there as well this week-end. Everyone in my group has been told that crampons, ice axes, and walking sticks/poles are a required piece of equipment. We are doing the main trail.

I have built a day into this trip so we can spend a day throwing ourselves down a slope. I have gone through a training class with RMI and am somewhat experienced with ice axe and crampons having done a few exposed climbs. Have I had to save myself or anyone else? No. But I know that having an ice axe gives me just that little extra bit of protection that may save my life.

The weather this past week has changed this into a serious hike with serious consequences if mistakes are made. I have made it very clear to the group that we will travel no higher than conditions and skill permit. I do not want to come home and tell anyone that we shouldn't have done that. I have done that twice before and was extremely fortunate.

Hope to see you on the summit and back at the Portal for pancakes!

Scott L and Cloudrippr are correct in their assertions regarding the ice axe/crampon relationship. The reason is this: by virtue of their very design, crampons will enable you to put yourself on steep, icy terrain on which a fall could be catastrophic. The only hope for arresting such a fall will be with the axe. Wearing boots alone while carrying an axe will tend to be self-limiting and thus safer for the novice. A possible exception to this rule would be relatively flat or glacier walking.

Also, I certainly wouldn't make my equipment decisions based on what a couple of REI sales clerks told me.

I hope everyone has a fun and safe time on the mountain this weekend; maybe I'll run into some of you!

Dave

just my .02, but I want to agree with what the others here have said.
crampons don't save lives, but an ice axe does. hate to say it, but if you don't know how to use an ice axe, it's best to get training, and then attempt the climb.
sorry, don't mean to be harsh.

There's a reason why very few stores rent this equipment.....it can get you into a lot of trouble if you're not trained to use it. It's not like renting a pair of snowshoes.

I didn't buy my axe or crampons until I was signed up for a class on how to use them. Those two pieces of equipment plus training/experience are a triad that should not be broken.

Think about this: What if you are up there with your rented crampons and you start to slip and fall? What do you do at that instant? Where should your axe be?

If the correct answers to those questions do not come to you completely, instantly and automatically you should rethink your plans and/or get some training.

In the wrong hands an axe can sometimes be more of a liability than a benefit.

Sam -

Based on your limited experience with an ice axe, I'm curious if you've even had any crampon experience? Please don't think that crampons clip onto your boots like a pair of skis, and then whisk you up the ice slope. A sure way to get even more injured in an alpine fall is if you're wearing crampons and are unable to arrest yourself quickly. This is the same reason why one would never glissade with crampons on their feet. To be brief, a point could easily catch an ice divet at speed and cause you to twist a knee or cartwheel out of control.

My point is: if you're not experience with an axe, don't take one. But don't think crampons are a walk in the park. They require an equal amount of education and training.

My advice: get an axe and learn how to use it. If nothing else, watch this video, then practice for 30-60 minutes on a gentle slope at the bottom of the climb. Once you feel comfortable and are able to stop within 10 or 15 yards, you'll be better off than relying on a trekking pole and crampon to arrest you.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LM3xLshmNnk

Check out the book Mountaineering: The Freedom of The Hills for a good chapter on ice ax usage regarding self arrest and self belay.