Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Mountaineering boots

I am getting ready for the winter season and I need some guidance as to what to look for in mountaineering boots. I would like to keep it within the "normal" range of $400-$500 (ouch). I would appreciate any information from all you hardcore mountaineers. Kurt W., you listening?

Wow, don't know where you buy, but that seems high.

Probably the most common issue is, plastic or leather?

Unless you are planning Everest, you should be able to get boots in either category that are very acceptable for around $300 or less.

In the leather category, I've known many who were partial to La Sportiva Makalu's. This is a heavy leather boot, that can be used in most conditions in the Sierra.
reviews:
http://www.backpackgeartest.org/reviews/...eering%20Boots/

I must say, though, that for tromping around in the snow for hours and hours, plastics (that fit) are hard to beat.

If you plan to use your boots mainly in snow and high altitudes I'd suggest plastic. They are warmer and stay dryer in the snow. If you plan on using them for summer and fall trips also you might be better with an insulated leather boot. Also, if you plan to use the boots for anything technical like ice climbing or alpine rock you'll get more performance from a leather boot.

I use plastic boots when I guide our winter/spring Mt. Whitney climbs. Our rental boots are insulated leather so they can be used all year round.

As far as brands go I'd suggest getting the model that fits your feet the best. If you are unsure of sizing (and I know you live in So Cal) go to A16 and have one of the employees do a detailed foot measurement. They bring in reps to train them on how to do this correctly and they'll guarantee the fit... even if you've worn the boots! Scarpa, Koflach, and Lowa (among others) are all good brands that make plastic boots.

If you plan to use them for higher elevations (Mt. McKinley, Aconcagua, Himalaya, etc.) I'd suggest getting a pair of aftermarket liners that are warmer than the stock inners that come with the boots. Intuition custom liners are very popular, or several companies have them made with aveolite.

Let me know if you have more questions.

All the best,

Kurt

Hey, Doc! I put the "$400-$500" as my "summit." No higher than a wallet-ache. Speaking of ache, the herniated disc/sciatica didn't keep me down this year. Got to the top of "Mecca West" twice. Just gotta watch out when I pick up a piece of paper or load the dishes in the dishwasher.

Kurt! Thank you. I singled you out because who else would know all of this! BTW, great slide show. Saw pics of the Baldy hike. Nothing like a good slide to the Ski Hut.

Planning on doing Kili in July-August 2007. Tentative. There may not be any snow up there! Then there is Rainier if Kili doesn't. I want to do Rainier before it explodes like Mount St. Helens.

One thing to note on plastic boots... I bought my Koflach Degrees 2 years ago and have had great success with them. At first, however, my feet were sloshing around like crazy. I had to use inserts for my heels to stop sliding so drastically when walking uphill.

My normal shoe size is a 10.5, and I was told that Koflach doesn't make 1/2 sizes, so I opted for the 11's, since getting a smaller size meant more constriction on the feet, which would in turn make my feet cold.

After I put in the inserts, I haven't had a problem. I've hiked 20+ miles a day in them and have found them enjoyable, despite their 6+ lbs combined weight with the inserts.

One last thing: When I bought my boots I was told that many plastic boot makers have standard sizes for the outer shell, and then only change the liner to fit according to shoe size. I'm not sure if this is correct, and maybe someone with more experience knows if this is true?

For example, maybe a 9 and 10 liner would go in the same plastic shell, or maybe an 11 and 12 liner would go in a size 12 plastic shell. Like I said, this information was told to me. I haven't done any research on it, or even tried to confirm it with others. If anyone has more information on that, it would be greatly appreciated!

If it is true, it's just something else to keep in mind.

Thanks,

Gusto

I like the Koflach Degre boots for very cold climbing and vertical ice climbing. They are a little stiff for long hikes, but I find that I get used to them after a day or two and don't really notice it. For non-plastic boots, I am a fan of Sportiva boots - which one depends on the type of climbing that you plan to do. I suggest that you call Sportiva (303.443.8710) and talk to customer service. I've found them to be knowledgeable and do a good job of helping you to choose the right boot.

One you find a few different boots, there is no substitute for trying them on and hiking around the store for a long time to see if there are any hotspots or pinch points. You really can't tell much about how a boot fits after 5 minutes.

In early June 2006, I rented a pair of Koflach Degre boots from Outdoor Adventures in San Jose and used them to climb Mount Hood. Those were the most comfortable mountaineering boots I have ever worn and they kept me dry and warm all the time.