Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Mountaineer's Route Conditions

I'm heading up this Friday to do the MR. Has anyone been up recently that can tell me how much snow is on the last technical section before reaching the summit?

I hope you all won't mind if I add on to the questions too..I have a permit with my friend from Seattle for MR. We're both good with an ice axe and crampons and wanted a two-day route on Whitney. Wondering about conditions as well as what people normally use for protection for the couloir. Do we need a rope? Also recommended camp for a two day on MR - sources have told me that camping by Upper Boy scout lake is windy but a good place to stop...We are driving up Saturday morning (from LA) because I have to work Friday. Have enjoyed all the expert advice on this board since I moved here a year ago, and appreciate everyone's willingness to help make a trip on Whitney safe and successful.

Likewise, were considering Russell via UBS and Carillon Saddle this weekend. Heard from Visitor's center that there is patchy snow/ice near UBS from weather 2 weeks ago. Any feedback on Russel East Ridge conditions (snow/ice) is much appreciated.

Mike M.

For Russell/Carrilon: Didn't look like much snow/ice on the south faces for the ascents. But the north sides of all the peaks had some good dusting. I would think the East Ridge should be interesting.

The Approach from Clyde Meadow looks completely clean of snow as of Sunday (from Thor):



Didn't get a good enough angle on the chute for the MR, but didn't look like too much yet. Again, the angles from Thor aren't optimal. Hopefully someone will post true conditions.

-L

Mountaineer Route conditions 2 weeks ago Sept 29. And yes it was quite windy at Upper Boy Scout Lake.



The picture is a link to the rest of the album.

Abbreviations can be sometimes confusing. Obviously, you are using MR = Mountaineer’s Route. But one or two of the above responders appear to take MR = Mt. Russell. For Alan on this board, Mt. Ritter probably comes to mind. Personally, I think Mojave Red. But then context helps.

Yesterday, a friend and I tried a new approach to the South Face route on Mt. Russell. On the way in, on the slabs below Clyde Meadow, we met my friend Doug Nidever (Sierra Mountain Guides) and four clients descending. Some had just climbed the East Ridge of Mt. Russell, while the others had descended Russell - Carillon Pass to Tulainyo Lake and gone up the northeast ridge. They reported a little snow on the East Ridge—6" was mentioned—and that they were happy they had crampons and ice axes.

The nighttime temperature at our Clyde Meadow camp didn't get below 30.

Thanks to all. I guess if you will allow me, I have two unanswered questions:
1) If going up the Mountaineer's Route getting a late start as I have to drive up there on Saturday, where would you camp for a two day trip? Is there a better place than Boyscout lake that is accessible in an "afternoon's" hike and
2) Are crampons/ice axe enough for the mountaineer's route if we don't get a big snow dump or do you ever need a rope and protection?

Sorry for the likely redundant questions from a newby... Hoping this will be the first time to summit Whitney.

As for camping, there are actually 2 Boyscout lakes (upper and lower). I almost always do the Mountaineers route as a one day climb, but when I have camped, it was at upper Boyscout, which is a good location to camp if you are starting late.

I have never personally needed to use protection on the Mountaineer's route, but I always bring a rope (and have used it to help a few people out). I would strongly adise you to bring a helmet.