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#41764 09/24/07 06:10 AM
Joined: Sep 2007
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Hi, all.
I'm going up the MR in about 2 weeks, and I'm wondering if UBSL or Iceberg Lake is the preferred place to camp. What are the advantages and/or disadvantages of each?

Also, in typical summer conditions, is water usually available below Iceberg Lake at the waterfall or the scree slope? The recent snowfall may make a difference, but I'd rather be safe than sorry, since the it would the only water between the slabs / Clyde Meadow and Iceberg.

Finally, if I camp at Iceberg, am I wasting time and energy stopping at UBSL on the way up? If I bypass UBSL, do I pretty much take a straight shot from Clyde Meadow up the rocks leading toward the East Face?

Any info would be super. More questions to follow. Thanks!
Larry


Never moon a werewolf.
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UBSL is lower, so depending on your acclimatization, might be preferable. The summit is well within hiking range from there. Iceberg Lake will be higher and colder, but only 2000' from the summit.

I just used the water directly (and untreated) from both lakes. Wouldn't worry about trying to get any from the waterfall/seep.

You get within 100 yards or so of UBSL (near the trees). So unless you are in a big hurry, go see the lake. The route is not a "strait shot". From the trees, head south past the ridge overlooking UBSL, then turn westward toward the east face, following the drainage.

Joined: Sep 2007
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Thanks, Steve.
Since I'm acclimate slowly, and since I'll likely spend a second night on the hill, I'll stick with UBSL.

Based on your route description (and a question to everyone): If I'm *leaving* UBSL (rather than bypassing it), my understanding is that I'd be better off avoiding going west up the steep slope (the first "right-hand" leaving the lake) the first chance I get, and instead head south a bit THEN head west. If I go too far south, might I wind up too far in the drainage?

I've been up here before but have the navigation abilities of a banana slug (ask anyone who I've hiked with). Thanks to all in advance for any additional info.

Larry


Never moon a werewolf.
Joined: Jul 2007
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My experience with multiple climbing partners yields the result that there is virtually no difference in altitude symptoms between UBSL and Iceberg.

You either suffer the headache and nausea for a few hours upon arrival or you don't. My best advice is to drink as much as you can hold throughout the day, and take an Advil or two every two hours, and go for Iceberg. You'll be considerably closer to the MR gully, and have a lot more left over for getting up Whitney the next day. (Check the message board for recent ice/snow conditions in the "Final 400" chute at the top of the gully, and be prepared for a brief but true Class 5 entry and exit move into and out of this chute.)

Be sure to study the route from UBSL to Iceberg, which heads up the staircase slope to the south, not up the rock field at the western end of UBSL. Once up the south slope, turn west and go about as far as you can up that glacial valley toward Keeler and Day Needles, then face north again and make your way up the slope to the Iceberg plateau. Avoid the 'waterfall' area you encounter a little earlier in this valley. Th slope at this point seems to hold the promise of easy navigation, but is in fact quite difficult, slippery, and treacherous.

Finally, one caution about your route from Lower Boy Scout to Upper — stay off the high rocks rising above Lower Boy Scout, staying in the boulders that hug Clyde Meadow and the creek before crossing over the creek and onto the water-stained slabs. When leaving Lower Boy Scout, stay low, looking for use trails and cairns to guide you through the boulders, then the brush, and the tricky sometimes slippery slabs.



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Thanks a million, guys.
L


Never moon a werewolf.

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