Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board MR Question

First and foremost, thanks for the great information on this board. It has really prepared me for my first ascent up the MR this August.

Although I have reviewed just about every post on this board pertaining to the MR, I still have a question about the two basic summit routes once you gain the notch, i.e. up the chute or over what has been called the "easy traverse."

Assuming that there is no snow on the traverse, is it a relatively "easy" and safe route? I understand that there is still some exposure and that there is some loose scree, but from the pictures that I have reviewed it seems that the exposure and/or relative danger of the traverse is less than the class 3 chute. I also understand that the traverse is an entirely different animal when littered with ice/snowfields, so I am mainly looking for thoughts on when there is no snow present (as I am thinking will be the case in late August).

It just seems like everyone who provides reports of their climbs go up the chute instead of the traverse, which I can understand in the winter but during the summer it seems like there should be a fair amount of people traversing if this is a true option. I must admit that I would like to have an easier option if available for my first summit attempt.

Thanks!!!

I think this is something you will have to assess when you get there, no matter how much beta you gather beforehand. The "hard" part of either route is near the notch--things get easier as you go up. The lower part of the chute will likely have water ice in it when you are there, which can complicate things. You can climb around it, but you might not like where that puts you. I thought that the traverse was kind of a pain because you're contouring along, crossing ribs and gullies as you go. The chute is more direct. The chute is easier to get right on the descent. The traverse is less obvious. You have to aim below the notch as I recall, since the last rib is more like class 5 if you try to cross it. Best to go underneath. The exposure on the chute is kind of minimal at the bottom where it counts. On the traverse it just gets worse and worse (while the climbing gets easier and easier) because the base of the NF drops off fast west of the notch.

One reason for going up the chute is that it is fun and on good rock, so is safe and enjoyable for anyone with decent scrambling skills who is not overly bothered by exposure.

The big danger with the "easy walk-off" is when there is snow, as you surmise, which from about now on can become hard and icy. Below are two pictures taken on 10 September 2004, and you can see there are still remnants of it even that late. But without snow, you just have to step carefully--one slip and you end up in Fresno. This year, I think snow will not be an issue in August.

In many trips up the MR I have seen only one party doing the walk-off (see the second picture). I have gone on it a couple of times (no snow), to sample exits up the second and third chutes, adjacent ribs, etc. It was never a big deal.

The walk-off does get easier, the farther west you go. And the second chute is easier to ascend than the first, the third easier yet, and so on. If you keep going, there are finally no chutes left and you are on the summit plateau.

In case you didn't see them, my pictures from two weeks ago are here .

We have never used the "easy traverse" on any of our trips. By the time you get to the notch, you are interested in getting to the top as quickly as possible. Going the easy traverse way seems way out of the way. I have seen tracks in the snow going that way in early summer, but never people actually taking that route.

It seems climbing up good rock up the chute has to be a better option then taking the long detour walking sideways across the easy traverse scree field.

Last weekend, I did both because I wanted to find out the answer to this question myself--how the two options compare.

As others mention, the traverse is essentially free of snow right now, which makes it a completely different animal.

I didn't much care for the traverse. I found it steep, loose, tedious, and generally less appealing the farther west you go. The word 'easy' did not come to mind.

Rather than try to take it all the way to the summit plateau, I got fed up and took one of neighboring chutes, which looked easier than the left-most chute.

As for the left chute, it's nice and direct, but it still has some ice in it. The climbing is good. It's steep enough and feels exposed enough that some people won't be happy there. I doubt, however, they'd be much happier with the traverse.

Hope that helps,

Andy

There was still a teeny bit of ice in the chute Thursday afternoon (more on Saturday morning), but easily avoided by staying left. I can't imagine there being any problems in August (though stranger things have happened).

On a related note, a lot of people have been confused as to where to start the MR from Iceberg Lake. We recently finished mapping all the left-hand possibilities. In the manner of safety I would take a copy of this route photo on your trip...(and for the love of Pete---stay on route!).

Uh..sbslowpoke appears to have spilled his pot of ramen noodles on the route...

Chris

Could you label these routes please?

lol

I like that last one that starts to go up the East Buttress and then aborts.

Yep, we covered them all. (Labels to come.)

(Hey Rick, did you ever get my e-mail? We could've used a fourth for the EB last week. Perhaps next time....)

Hey--you left out the 'climbing up the snow in couloir' route.

Actually...that could be a graphic plot of Rick Kent doing a training hike or something...he's the kind of guy that would enjoy a few dozen consecutive hikes from Iceberg to the Notch in 8 hours or something...

Chris

Thanks, guys. Once again, the information is really helpfull in my plans. I have decent scrambling/bouldering skills, but absolutely zero climbing experience beyond class 3 and am not totally comfortably with lots of exposure. That is why I am a little apprehensive about the chute.

I am pretty confident I will be fine, but it looks like it might be one of those things that I will have to scout out once I am up there before I know for sure.

Oh..sorry Elway..I was too busy smarting off to actually be a help to you..

I was always a bit nervous about the "Final 400" from the Notch to the summit. It wasn't until late April that I finally got to see it firsthand..and it is pretty impressive. The "Easy Walk Off" certainly didn't look very appealing..particularly with all the snow that was on it when I saw it. I was lucky because I had Rick Kent and Tina down below climbing up the north face to give a bit of perspective about where you'd end up if you started heading that way. It was a pretty incredible view.

Once on the rocks leading up the "Final 400" I was feeling a lot better. Just moving up them feels better than wondering about them. I had a great lead-out though with Rick Graham selecting a great route up. I was really surprised at how quickly that last section up from the Notch went..I mean..it felt like time just zapped by and it wasn't tiring at all. After climbing the "Homestretch" on Longs Peak I'd say the "Final 400" was far easier and less taxing.

You'll do great. Just remember at the Notch to take a moment and look around and enjoy the fantastic vistas. I was so amped to continue up the route that I probably wouldn't have lingered long at the Notch..but my climbing party were a bunch of "cool cats" so I was forced to chill out and enjoy the experience (I'm glad I did). Let us know how it goes for you...I always like reliving my experience by reading how it goes for others!

Good luck!

Chris

PS..you can see our pictures of the MR at this link: http://tinyurl.com/3b394e

The traverse is also pretty steep and exposed. More than one person has died on the traverse in snow/ice conditions. When it is free of snow and ice, the exposure and steepness is obviously the same, but the footing is more reliable.

Elway: I wouldn't worry about your ability to climb the 400 foot staircase from the notch to the summit. You don't need any climbing ability past class three. In fact most of it is easy class three.

My whole family took the MR, including all my children. They were fine. Over the years, many non climbers have gone with us up the chute.........

Personally, I have never thought the easy traverse would be a good trade for the chute

Start on the left side

http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/1221327865061435028OGIbPy

About 100 feet up cross over to the right

http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/1382218187061435028rBipJX

Climb up the right side to the top

http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/1382217929061435028WINVdA

http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/1221327955061435028szhLfd

I've only done the "easy" traverse or walk off. The reason is the time I went up the MR was at the beginning of October in 2004. All of the previous winter's snow and ice was long gone but that day it snowed starting around 13,000 as we went up the coulior. By the time we got to the notch every flat surface, including all the hand and foot holds going up to the summit had a couple of inches of fresh snow on it. Under these conditions the traverse was the only thing that made since. Two climbers coming down the MR had also told us that, as we were aproaching the notch. A couple of inches of fresh snow on the traverse made things slick but not potentially fatal as compared to the climb under those conditions.

Rafael...

Well I just got back from my first climb of the MR on 6-27. The final 400' is absolutly spectactular. I left the parking lot at 4:15 a.m. and arrived at the summit at noon. Be careful though one slip and it is a long tumble down. When reaching the top I was shocked at just how close the summit hut is. It is 3 minutes away. I wish you the best and if you are half as joyous as I was you will have tears in your eyes. Go for it!

Congrats Craig...and it's stupid..but I had tears in my eyes both times I summited Whitney...