Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Whitney Winter Climb

We have a three-man expedition coming out West to climb Mt. Whitney, via the Mountaineer route, at the end of February. Are there any groups or individuals planning a mid to late January, early February, climb that would be so kind as to share trip information with us to help us better prepare? The favor would be gladly returned on the message board for anyone coming out East to climb the Presidentials in New Hampshire, where we do all of our “stay at home” climbing. Thanks and safe climbing...

Hello Las. I am planing a summit trip sometime in early February if all goes well I will let you know what we see. I don't know what route I will take but I will let you know when I go.

Thanks allot. Much appreciated. We climbed Whitney last February and didn't quite make the summit. We were told that the mountaineer route is shorter than the Whitney route so we took it. Towards the end of February last year there wasn't a ton of snow so we ditched our snow shoes and went with crampons and axes. Worked well. However I hear that they got bombed with snow this year thanks to El Nino. If you haven't climbed Whitney before, I have some info you may find useful and I would be glad to share it with you before you head out. E-mail me. Las

Dave,
This is Miguel Forjan from last year. You and Rob are attempting Whitney again? Excellent! Well, my friend from last year is also attempting Whitney this year too. His name is Mike. He and another climber have tentatively set their trip for Feb. 15-18, 2003. So, I'll talk to Mike to e-mail you when he gets back from his trip.

By the way, although this winter I am busy doing other climbs (I will be heading in 3 weeks to Mexico's Pico de Orizaba, among others), I still am interested to hook up with you and Rob on some winter ascents of New Hampshire's Presidentials (e.g. Mt Washington), perhaps next winter 2004.

Take care,

-Miguel Forjan

I'll be there around 1/31-2/3. I'm going solo so if it looks too hairy I may not get far. I'll post pics and report when done. Plan on Mountaineer's...

Cheers!

Miguel,
Hello Friend!!! Was great hearing from you. I sent you an e-mail. Please get in touch with me. I would love to correspond with your buddy Mike when he comes back from Whitney. Also it would be great to plan a trip with you next year in the Presidentials. Rob and I have been doing allot of climbing there this year. Nasty, nasty weather and tons of snow. Write me. Thanks

avessey..
Thanks for responding. I would highly recommend you take the MR. It's a bit more challenging but allot quicker to the top than the Whitney trail. Please let me know the conditions when you return (i.e. portal road access, snow and weather conditions as you ascend etc...) If I can answer any questions for you please feel free to ask. However I've only attempted Whitney once last February and there are far more knowledgable folks on this site than I, Miguel for one. I would be happy to share whatever information with you. Oh one helpful tip that I can pass along is to remember to bring lots of sunblock. We remembered to bring everything except for that and paid a heavy price. The sun is very very strong up there. I wasn't used to it. Climbing here out East the sun is pretty much a non-factor. In the Sierra Nevadas it certainly is. Please feel free to contact me anytime and I'll pass along whatever I learned from last years' trip. Keep in touch and safe climbing.

Thanks for the info. One big question I have is how long did it take to do the round-trip on MR? I know this is gonna vary by how far up the road I get but a rough idea would be useful in planning. Also what was the snow cover like when you went? I will bring the sunblock - I'm from the east too and that was something that hadn't made my list...

avessey,
We drove all the way up the portal road to the parking lot at the trail head. Last year there wasn't too much snow. We ditched our snowshoes at the trail fork and climbed from there with mountain boots & crampons. We only got as far as Iceburg and then bailed before the pitch to the summit. Lots went wrong. Sun poisioning, 75 lb packs, AMS all contributing factors. Plus because it was our vacation and we craved some R&R, we had a waiting steak dinner, a few beers, and some $2.00 Blackjack tables waiting for us in Vegas. This also played a part in us deciding to bail. Our philosophy is that the mountain will always be there. We can always go back
...which we are

We were on the mountain a total of 2.5 days and 2 nights total. Had we made the summit we were figuring 3.5 days and 3 nights on the mountain. We are slow, but steady climbers. I'm 48 and my climbing partner is 43. Both hockey players all our lives with bad knees, so we climb & hike at a slower pace than most folks. Last year we met up with a pair of young climbers from California.
They did the entire climb in two days, one night. They were animals. Actually finished the walk out with head lamps because they wanted a pizza. Totally "in-shape", young, very fast and chance takers. Light pack, no survival gear etc...Perhaps you fall somewhere in between them and us.
I am corresponding with a few expeditions that might be off the mountain before you leave. Whatever information I get from them, I will pass along to you. Safe climbing...and
DON'T FORGET THE SUNBLOCK.

Thanks again. I definitely fall somewhere in between. Tend to do long days but will have more gear than am used to carrying. Definitely not overly risk-taking and may not make it either (I've bailed from more summits then I've made it to the top of). Time may be a factor as I only have 2.5 days before I have to be someplace else. I'd welcome any recent intelligence on conditions, etc...!

Thanks,
Andrew

I made it to the first campground at the turnoff for massen lakes with 4 wheel drive and chains. This was on Thursday night 01/02/03. I am going up again Thursday pm 01/16/03. I'll let you know what I run into. I plan to solo the Mtnrs Rte Thursday thru Monday. Two new friends made the attempt week before last but ran out of time at the notch. They chose to huff it from the road closure sign. I may park up in the lot if I can make it. It's a little sketchy, ther were a few new slides and some very large boulders in the road. I would hate leave my truck up there til spring behind a new slide.

Bill,
Thanks and good luck. Please keep my e-mail handy and let me know what you encounter on your trip after you get back. I know what you mean about the portal road and falling rocks. We came out West last Winter to climb Whitney (late February) and even though the Sierra Nevadas got little snow in 2002 that damn road and the falling rocks always made me a bit nervous. Went rent a 4 wheel drive vehicle and could only imagine the rental bill if the car got stuck up there till Spring. I'd be better off taking it apart piece by piece and carrying it down. Hopefully by late February it will improve. I look forward to hearing from you. Much appreciated and Safe Climbing!

Dave,

This is Mike, Miguel Forjan's friend. I just saw your post as well as Miguel's reply. I'll let you know if indeed I do head up there. Right now it looks like mid Feb.

Take care,
Mike Ostby

Check out my "whitney in winter" report on this board; I went up last week. If you have any specific questions feel free to e-mail me. Daniel

Mike,
Thanks for posting. Great to hear from you. If you do go up before us please contact me (either by e-mail or phone) and let me know portal road, snow, weather and trail conditions etc... Would be greatly appreciated. Our three man team will be in Lone Pine on Saturday March 1st and will begin our climb on Sunday. Hopefully Whitney will be somewhat accommodating by then. I heard from another climber that not many folks have been making the summit this Winter. Safe Climbing, have fun and keep in touch. Thanks

Las

Daniel,
Thanks for the post. I did check out your trip report and left you a reply. I believe we have similar philosophies...the mountain will always be there...Our belief there is no shame in bailing. When we travel 3,000 to climb we want to summit like anyone else. However seeing as how it is also our vacation it has to be fun. Once it becomes something other than a tolerable good time, we stop. Much appreciated...
Be well...safe climbing

Las

Hi,

We are also planning to go there during 15-18 Feb (If one of us gives up the idea of spending the night on Whitney summit!). We plan to arrive at portal around 10 AM and then hike to trail camp to set up tents. Next morning around 6 AM we want to start and go for summit and return to camp. On Sunday back to portal.

Is this plan too ambitious? We are also thinking of setting up another camp on Saturday before peak then go to summit on Sunday and then down to trail camp. On Monday we start back to portal and drive out.

We would appreciate any suggestions and alternate plans and tips on safe places for setting camps on Whitney trail during winter.