Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board How "scary" is the Mountaineer's Route?

Well, perhaps I am overanalyzing it...if people take their little kids up the route then I guess I could handle it just fine. As I said, it is better to be overprepared than underprepared, so I will certainly take some rope and a helmet...the climbing shoes are still under consideration in my mind, but I probably won't bother with them as I don't want the extra weight.

tc,
To be blunt, it seems that you really have no idea what you are in for. Your comments about GPS, route finding, altitude medication, need for rock shoes and rope hauling your backpack show your inexperience. Inexperience is fine since we were all newbs at one time, but to couple it with going solo is asking for trouble. You are doing the right thing by trying to get as much information as you can and training for the climb ahead of time, but I would seriously suggest going with someone who has done the route before. You should have no problem finding someone to go with during the summer months, especially during the weekends. Going with someone will help you both mentally and physically, and greatly increase your chances of success. As you have read, many inexperienced people young and old have made it up the MR route, but the one thing they had in common is they went with somebody else. Keep learning and good luck.

Although some children have gone up the MR with their parents, I still have a well deserved respect for the whole area. Those who have taken their children up there have experience and use it to keep them safe. As you can imagine they show them where to climb and keep them away from cliffs and other unsafe areas. There are plenty of dangers, seen and unseen. Be carefull there so you come back without incident. Go prepared but don't underestimate the route.

TC
So what do you think now? Confusing?

Its a great route on a great mountain (note route verse trail). No climbing gear, shoes, rope, etc needed - assuming this time of the year. Well, depends on the conditions - maybe Crampons and/or an Ice Axe. Just to throw some more variables in the mix...

My small group has decided to go up (again) around next August. Train Train Train... Maybe we can hook up for the trip. Hate to see you not make it after all this...

It's not that bad - actually, its a blast. Just can't be careless about it, and for a day hike - travel lite (while still being prepared of course). More weight equals more energy needed - my pack will be remarkably lite on my next trip.

Have fun with it.

Well, the more opinions, I hear the less confused I am. I like to hear many different views and then I can get a feel for the consensus and make a decision based on that.

At this point, I'm feeling fairly confident about being able to hike the route without too much trouble. Of course I'll have to train for a few months beforehand to get in superb shape, but as long as I do that, I'll probably be fine.

Of course the big wild card in the equation is how I react to the high altitude. That might ruin the hike, but I can't really prepare for that much except for acclimating myself for a few days beforehand and perhaps getting some of that medication that was suggested in another thread. Besides that, it will just depend on my physiology.

So I'm really looking forward to ending my weeklong Sierra trip next summer with this Whitney MR hike. It should be the icing on the cake to what will hopefully be a very enjoyable vacation/adventure.

If your ending a weeklong trip in the Sierra's, you should have plenty of acclimation, more so than the large majority of people on the mountain.

I personally would stay away from Diamox, you have to start taking it a few days in advance, even taking 1/2 doses I still felt the effects of it and anything carbonated is undrinkable.

If I'm spending a week in the Sierra's I want to at least be able to enjoy a few beers throughout the trip.

Sorry didn't mean to get off topic here.

Thanks for the Diamox feedback. I suppose I should get a prescription beforehand, but only take it if I have a fairly severe reaction to the altitude early in the trip. Then taking it will be the lesser of two evils, even it has some negative side effects.

tchiker - just returned from summiting via the MR this past weekend. i'm located here in atlanta. give me a call or drop me a note if you want to chat. sent you an email with my contact info.

tchiker, Calhiker posted some new pictures of the MR. Some of the ones above Iceberg Lake show what the climbing is like.

http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/553872894zYzcld

Thanks...those photos were interesting and the climbing didn't look as bad as in some of the others I've seen.

It's amazing how all the photos from Whitney hikes all seem to show such a crystal blue sky...does it ever get rainy or overcast up there? It doesn't seem like it from all the pics I've seen.

tchiker

You have discovered one of the sad artifacts of modern photography. When Ansel Adams humped an 8 by 10 inch camera, tripod and film boards half way up some desolate peak, it was just too much effort to take the camera down for every threatening cloud that drifted by so the dramatic clouds appear in his pictures. Today, at the hint of threatening weather, the modern, compact, high resolution digital camera fits right back into the pocket or pack. Modern mountain photography records only the pretty weather.

Dale B. Dalrymple
dbdimages.com

Not true.

Have a look at my Bishop Pass trip over the 4th, my HM to WP and OV to WP albums at:

http://piotrowski.smugmug.com/California%20Mountains/12175

http://piotrowski.smugmug.com/gallery/1638989

Actually, I did see one photo album from a 13 day JMT hike where there were three or four days of overcast weather. But most every MW hike pic I've seen seems to show blue skies, cloudless or nearly so.

Richard, your photos with the overcast skies still look great and show a different kind of beauty in the mountains. Still, I'm not going to do my Whitney hike unless the skies are almost completely clear. I want to cut down the odds of being hailed on and want to get the prettiest views I can for the first time I make that climb. I figure I can always try again in the future if I don't get great weather on this trip.

I'm going to try to be out in the Sierra for 5 days or longer in the August of next year, so hopefully I will get some great weather..it is certainly probable, but certainly not guaranteed.

Blue skies are seen in most pictures probably because most people don't want to get their cameras wet, and in general, for most people, blue skies with the surrounding scenery are considered more photogenic, although I'm sure people like my photographer-wife and Richard Piotrowski (to name two) would be the exception to "most people".

CaT

I was in your position 1 year ago when I decided to do the MR. I searched everything on the web possible every picture and any notes on routes and trail conditions. I created a file full of pictures and notes and studied it almost every night until I felt I knew the route with my eyes closed. I went up 8/19-8/21 and succesfully made it to the summit. I went up the main trail the year prior so I felt confident that I new the conditions and how I would handle the altitude. My only concern was exposure and danger in the chute and notch. The route finding was well marked with carins so getting to Iceburg lake was easy. The Chute was not hard you just need to plan ahead while you are climbing so you don't get stuck in a area you cannot get up easily. I went up lilke the 3rd or fourth notch route and thats where things got alittle scary. I knew I would make it up... but I was very concerned how I would get down. The answer is the go down the first notch very slowly. From there you just slide down the chute and your home free. I had the best time of my life those three days. I suggest try the main trail first in the beginnig of the year and then do a MR summit. You will be much more confident.

Ryan

tchiker- not a bad idea to bring a climbing helmet to wear in the chute above Iceberg Lake. There can be rock fall both from others above you in the chute and, more importantly, from climbers on the technical rock routes above you on the east face. Some people you see on the route won't wear them, but one good rock on the head can ruin your day.

Great point that everyone going up the MR needs to consider. We had rocks come down on our trip down the chute caused by hikers above us. We did a bit of evasive manuevering to get out of the way, but it was a bit unnerving and could certainly be a serious problem getting hit on the head without a helmet on.

Wayne posted this description over on the Richard's Whitney Message board....

"Doug Sr. gave me this description, long before he wrote his book, Mount Whitney: Mountain Lore From the Whitney Store:

Mountaineer's Route
This is not a trail. For experienced climbers the route should be easy to follow and only one path needs to be used. This will stop the severe damage that is being done in this drainage. Also, as climbers, we should set the example of taking out our own trash and human waste.
Take the main Whitney trail to the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek sign, this is 150ft. from the Wilderness Boundary sign. If you have any doubt stay on the main trail to the sign and then come back 150ft. Cross the creek and see the cut log faint path up THE NORTH SIDE/RIGHT SIDE of the creek. About 200ft. distance up this path you will see a sign and poop bag dispenser. Read the sign Mountaineer's Route. Take a bag and use it. Bags can be placed in the covered can at the main trailhead at the Portal.
Follow this path up through the trees and ferns until it flattens out. This will be about a quarter of the way up this canyon. From here you should see the notch/gap below Lower Boy Scout Lake. Continue on about 100ft. and you will cross to the South side of the stream. This will be somewhat of a tunnel through the willows and it exits onto a slab (10'). Follow the path up the South side. Below the wall and above the stream, as the canyon narrows down and the path joins the slabs, you will cross the stream to the North side. This crossing can be very wet and icy. The stream has two threads at this point so you will cross one then go up a log and cross next to/under a waterfall. As you leave the water go to the wall and turn up the canyon. Fifty feet along the base of the wall will take you to a dead-end. This is the start of the ledges. Look up and right and you will see the "pine tree." Work your way up the crack to the tree. At the the tree look to the east and the ramp is straight ahead. Stay close to the wall and you should see the path. Walk 150' east on this ramp (level), then at this point you will be able to gain about three feet of elevation. Step up and follow this ramp east 175' again staying next to the wall (away from the drop-off) and this will get you to a short section of stair steps up about 5 feet and about 5 feet east. MAKE A MENTAL NOTE OF THIS POINT. This is the turning point on the way down. If you miss this and continue on the upper ledge you will need rope and climbing skills to get down. As you leave the ledge, head straight for the main wall in front of you. At the base of this wall (100') you will find the path. Follow the path at the base of the wall until it exits onto an open area and you will see the notch/gap below Lower Boy Scout Lake and the path is easy to follow. At the notch lose a little elevation to a sign that reads "No wood fires." Cross here to the south side, follow the path through the trees to the boulder field. Look along the base of this scree slope (south side of LBSL) and you will see the track to follow. Also see two giant rocks near the waterfall. Head to the downhill side of the lower boulder. Stay close to this rock. As you get to the rock you will see the willows. At the very edge of the downhill side of the lower rock is the path. Follow it in the willows about 15' and it will turn north and down into a small stream. Cross this stream and work up several feet and cross another thread of the water. As you exit this crossing you will be at a slab. Climb on to the slab and follow the slab to a group of trees (1500ft. +/- distance). These slabs will be icy and very slick. If not icy, mossy, so watch your step at all times through this section. When you get to the trees (Clyde Meadow) look up and left to the gap/saddle and follow slabs to the path that switchbacks up to this saddle. You will find a grand path at this point.
Now that you are here (11,500ft. +) let's talk it over. You have never had to use any more than walking skills. This should be about halfway and your last water spot is Iceberg Lake. Turn around now and you can see most of the North Fork Drainage. Your path should be almost a straight line to the Portal. The path that you followed has been used for a long time by many mountaineers. All of the false trails have caused much damage and ruined many great outings. Remember only step on rocks and stay on slabs. If you are on the path, stay on it. This will keep it fresh and easy for the next to follow. We could talk about cairns/ducks but I know that all schools of thought will never agree as to what's right. My thoughts are if they are wrong take them down. If they mark critical points, leave them.
Back to the trip. Follow this path up and past the small water-seep below Iceberg Lake. Many old climbers use this west end of the water-seep to climb up to Iceberg Lake, but now most travel past the water and go up the next draw west. This is much safer and faster with a pack. This takes you to Iceberg Lake.
The Mountaineer's Route takes the gully to the notch at 14,000ft. Several ways will get you to the notch. This depends on snow/ice conditions and your skill level. Rockfall and people in the chute above make it worth staying to the right of left as much as you can. Also in the middle of the chute there is a large boulder blocking the path. Don't climb up to it and try climbing around it. Pick a course around it about 50' below and it's fairly easy. The chute above this point is about 45 degrees and below is about 40 degrees.
From the notch several choices exist. The "easy walk off" or the first chute to the south. This easy walk off is only easy if it is DRY, and you know where to go. If it has any snow at all on it this will be 50 degrees + ice for a long way. Full climbing gear with ice skills and tools needed. The chute to the south of the notch if studied will reveal a path up on rock most of the summer. Again this will require climbing skills and a lot of people turn back at the notch. The last several hundred feet is not that important. The exposure picks up in this section and is a factor to consider on the way down if you continue up."

Read this many times in conection with the photos linked to. It will really help when you get there.

Thanks for the info...the more the better. I'll start to study it hard a few weeks before my trip next year. I already have a lot of bookmarks but will keep adding more.