Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Current Safest Route to the Summit

I am taking a group of freinds to the mountain. Some of us have been to the summit before on a day hike without the snow conditions. However a few in the group it will a first time. I wondering what is the safest route for July 1? Any "more" experience information is welcomed.

Until someone cuts trail up the Switchbacks the only route, thus, the safest route is up and down the chute.

I would suggest all in your group have at minimum an ice axe and the skills to self arrest.

I agree with webtravis. A group of seven of us sumitted on the 18th; we all had ice axes and crampons. My 12 year old son made it ok but had quite a bit of training on his crampons and ice axe prior to the trip. We had planned on glissading down the "Chute" between Trail Crest and Trail Camp on our return however, we returned late and the Chute had iced up! So we cramped down most of the way until we felt it was safe to glissade. Some of the switch backs are dry but the dangerous areas of the switch backs are still packed with ice and snow. If you plan the Chute approach, go early in the morning (before 6:00 am) when the snow is still hard so your crampons on bite in.

I'm also taking a group of 3 novices this weekend. We have ice axes and in-step crampons. Any thoughts on the snow chute with in-step vs. full crampons?

DrJRO,

There are various type of crampons, some of which are referred to as in-step which do not fall into the same category as some people define them. Suggest you post the name and model of the ones you are using to get the best feedback.

We summited on June 6 and there were two people I saw with instep crampons having a much harder time "duck walking" toes out (more of a Charlie Chaplin crawl, really) up the chute. There will be plenty of steps to follow, but you'll want toe spikes to dig, and to step naturally, especially if it's icy. I've got Grivel Airtech aluminums that work wonderfully and they're light enough that you forget you're wearing them -- especially when glissading. (No, no, that was a joke. DON'T glissade with your crampons on.) Good luck.

Thanks for the information. The next question I have considering that the group I took up Mt. Baldy on June 11 did well, would be difficult for them on Whitney if they are new to crampons? Also are there any places to rent them between Palmdale and Lone Pine?