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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 753
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 753
Itdanp21-

Here's a somewhat different way to answer your question - go on either route, but go with a professional guide or highly experienced climbing partner. While I agree with others that you are probably pushing the envelope too far to go solo with your current level of experience, the only way you'll improve your skills and experience is to take on the challenge. The safest way to do that is with someone who can teach you while also providing a safety net.

Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,871
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Doug,

My post wasn't meant to be harsh it was meant to make sure folks know what they are getting into this year. I've already seen two people slide down a slope and off a 4' lip into a creek and another break his arm sliding into a tree during the same climbing accident.

A lot of folks are going to come to Whitney Portal this year clueless about the conditions. I just wanted point out mistakes in the early season can be costly, especially if you come here without any knowledge in the use of crampons and ice axe you just purchased or rented.

You are absolutely correct everyday is different this is why I pointed some of these things which have gone wrong in the past. You have to prepare for the worst and hope for the best and most of all don't exceed your skill level at any time on your trip up the mountain.

I hope people have realistic expectations this year in the early season, especially those with little to no experience. I have seen their posts here and elsewhere and it like the snow and ice is just a bit of an inconvenience, it isnt.

Different every day is what keeps me coming back.

Sorry, if I ruffled some feathers that is something I did not mean to do.

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,446
Ken
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Bob, I have to admit that your story crossed my mind, as I wrote my last comments.

However, you have done some serious editing!

What is that phrase? "of a quality suitable for publication"

Should make a nice chapter in that book!!

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 6
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 6
A very sincere thank you to everyone who's posted so far. Thank you for taking the time to give a stranger valuable advice.

My girlfriend and I (there are two of us) are going to make the trip to Trail Camp this Tuesday and Wednesday. This part of the adventure was never really in question but both of us will be much more careful and more willing to turn back than if no one had posted. Really, you've made much more cautious mountaineers out of us with your posts.

We'll work on all of the techniques we learn with SMI as we ascend to and descend from Trail Camp. I'm taking revelant sections of the book with me (an extra pound) to be certain we're doing the techniques properly. If we make camp at Trail Camp early, we may also try to get up to Trail Crest to see what we'll have to deal with next week. Given the level of concern some of you expressed I've ordered a pair of harnesses, a rope, carabiners, and five pickets for next weeks trip so that we'll be ready to use running belays and anchored belays on any sections that we feel warrant them.

I'll take lots of pictures and notes so I can, in a small way, return the favor to others who read this board.

It's 2 am and I'm off to make the five hour drive to Bishop for my 9 am class.

Thanks again,

Dan

P.S. Bob, great story!

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