Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Trip report for my Mount Washington climb!

A wee-bit off topic..hehe...about 2000 miles off topic I guess! I had expressed wanting to get into a bit of winter mountaineering, so here is my trip report from Mount Washington, NH:

http://www.mudspike.com/lionhead.htm

Thanks for all the great advice from you guys and gals here. I'm looking forward to maybe making a winter climb of Mount Whitney someday!

Regards..

BeachAV8R

Great photos and story about the climb. What elevation did you guys start out from? It's nice to get a little variety.

Thanks

JJBB

Nice trip report. I did some ice-climbing and a winter accent (of Mt. Washington)just before new years with EMS and Tim was my guide. I see you had some nice weather, when I did it it was 58 miles per hour wind and visablity was poor but it was worth it.

How would you compare it to the MR (in mid-june,) I know Mt. Washington is easier but it thier that much of a difference in steepness/skills need?

If you go back to NH in the summer here's a heads up, they're pretty strict with where you can camp and the huts are $80 per person, and you meet quite abit od people around the summit of Washington(but you can get food at the observatory food court, I think it opens in May).

You should try the north and south presidentials, I started at pinkham notch up Mt Madison across the ridge, bagging peaks up to Crawford Notch. It took me 3 and a half days but, I had a 50-55lb pack and I wouldn't start hiking until 11:00.

BeachAV8R: great to hear from you, miss all of your posts from last year. Hope you and your girlfriend (now wife?) make it back out here some time.

chris615: there is a classical winter route up Mt Washington called Pinnacle Gully that starts with a long vertical ice climb up a frozen waterfall - quite a bit more technical than anything on the MR. However, you can just hike around that section and the rest of Mt. W is much less steep or technical than sections of the MR. The hardest part is near the summit where the winds are often severe (50+ knots) - you need your ice ax and crampons to keep from being blown off the mountain!

Thanks guys..

Jimjoe - I think Pinkham Notch..which is the trailhead, is 2034 feet or something very close to that. So total elevation gain is about 4300' or so feet maybe. It is a pretty good gradient..4300' in 4.2 miles to the summit.

Chris615 - Yeah..Tim was an awesome guide. Very strong..I don't think he ever broke a sweat or started breathing hard..lol...

As for comparing it to the MR..that is hard to do, but generally I'd say Mount Washington (in the winter) was easier. It was a relatively steady, plodding climb. Other than the really steep part at the beginning it didn't require anything other than putting one foot in front of the other. On the MR I felt there was much more variation of steps and climbing and loose rocks..etc.. Then of course there is the whole elevation thing. Overall the Mount Washington hike (on such a mild winter day) was not nearly as exhausting as the MR..that's for sure!

Sierra Sam - No..not a wife yet! Hehe...we figure we will get married someday on an exotic trip..we just don't know when yet. We'd like to come back to Whitney again..I know for sure I will, but I'm not sure about Marisa. After Longs Peak and Whitney she thinks she isn't suited (physiologically) for high altitude. She gets headaches and naseua..all the typical symptoms of AMS. It has happened three times now (in Rock Creek on our hike there she started getting a headache toward the top of the Lily Lakes trail (11000' or so?). We don't know what to do..we tried all the usual stuff, acclimating, water..etc...no drugs yet..but maybe that would work.

BeachAV8R

BeachAV8R-

The only thing proven to work universally is a slower climb, 1-1500 vertical feet per day after acclimitizing at around 8,000' for a few days. As I recall, you guys attempted Whitney on a 2 day push from the base, which means around 3,000 vertical per day.

I've taken several kids and new climbers up the MR (on 3 day trips) and have found Ginkgo Biloba to work quite well. My son had to turn back when he tried without it and made it to the summit via the MR quite easily when he took it. It's an over the counter food supplement, though I've found that the source/quality makes a difference in potency. Diamox, which is a prescription drug, has also been shown to be effective, though with certain well-known side-effects.

I bet a wedding ceremony on the summit would also do the trick <g>.

Hehe...I like the wedding idea! You are correct..we did a 2-day push to the summit..but I thought spending the previous 4 days at progressively higher elevations would have helped. We spent 2 days at Yosemite (elevation around 5K) and 2 days at Rock Creek (elevation around 10K). I can't remember the elevation at UBSL (12K?)..but I thought our plan was good..apparently I was wrong (doh!). In retrospect, I think we should have taken it a bit easier on our previous days leading up to Whitney. We did something like 22 miles on our Half Dome hike in a single day..followed by a fair hike up in the Rock Creek area. I think we were just moving a bit slow on our Whitney climb.

If I come back later this year to do it solo I think I can move a bit faster and further (not knocking Marisa...she just moves much more tentatively on unstable ground). I'd also be able to go a good bit lighter, with a bivy sack as opposed to a tent. I also think I'd prefer hiking all the way up to Iceberg to sleep instead of stopping at UBSL.

I'm excited to make another attempt though...I hope I can make it out there late this summer maybe..

Regards..

BeachAV8R

I think if she tries it with a day or 2 at 8000' taking it easy, followed by a easy hike up to Lower Boy Scout (~10,500'), then a day up to Iceberg Lake (~12,500), then a summit attempt when she's ready (even may take an extra night at Iceberg), she would make it. Let us know when you're thinking about coming out - I may try to find some time to go with you if you want.

> ...moves much more tentatively on unstable ground

Based on the above and your success on Half Dome, and your difficulties on the lower part of the MR, the sure thing for the two of you would be to get the permit for an overnight on the main trail. Up to the notch is really steep, and then above that... Nah, don't test your marriage. <grin>

And maybe stay at Horseshoe Meadows several days before -- that way she will surely be acclimated. The hike into Cottonwood Lakes is gentle and scenery is great -- quite different from other trails, too.

Good job Beach!

Nice to see you finally made a summit attempt. I'm glad to see you didn't encounter any winds of 231 mph or wind chills of 50 below zero!!

It's great to be guided by mountaineering specialists like EASTERN MOUNTAIN SPORTS (EMS) isn't it?

Again, congrats, job well done.

Thanks Crystal..I think...

BeachAV8R