We climbed the MR on Monday and walked out today. On Tuesday afternoon-evening there was a snowstorm that left 2 inches at UBSL all the way down to LBSL so conditions may have changed to the observations below.
The MR still has significant snow. The freezing level was below UBSL at dawn, so it is possible to crampon all the way to the summit if you leave early enough. Get onto the MR before 7:00 am, otherwise you will be slogging it all the way up to the notch. The traverse across to the NW ridge was ice. One slip can be fatal. Forget it if you are not proficient using crampons and axe. The direct route up from the notch was 90% snow/ice. Only attempt it if you are a confident ice climber as a buldge 3/4 way up makes it 75 degrees +. If you are coming down this way from the summit there are slings to rap off the top but you will need to rap about 40 metres down to get over the bulge.
We met quite a few climbers who had dubious equipment/skills. Running shoe-type hiking boots falling to pieces; no crampons; no ice axes, just hiking poles; no experience on steep ice; climbers showing obvious symptoms of AMS (vomiting half way up the chute). My assesment is the MR is currently Class 4 - 'a fall could be fatal', particulary the traverse across the top of the north face. Don't underestimate it. We did it without a rope or belaying but have been climbing all over the world for 20 years +.
Take heed. Given the conditions we observed, the MR is not recommended for anyone whose climbing experience is limited to summiting Whitney via the Mount Whitney Trail.
It is like mountaineering anywhere. In good conditions a Class 3 can seem like a Class 2. In tough conditions the Class 3 can turn into a 4.
Stay safe guys and girls.
