Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Current need for crampons

I am heading up the trail in about 1 week for an overnighter. I would prefer not to take my Ice axe and crampons due to weight issues.

I am getting conflicting ideas about the snow melting faster then normal...since pictures still show lots of snow up high.

How necessary are they to take, if I do my travelling after the sun warms up the snow a little bit?

Tiffany will you send conditions info after your trip? What elev are you heading for? My guess is crampons will be helpful in the morning and up high. Its snowshoes that I'd wondering about.

We will be up in the North Fork, trying to camp around Iceberg lake (12600 feet). From there either Russell or Whitney, depending on the snow in the Mountaineers Route Colouir.

Don't know how much help it is, but I would rather tow the pro than take any chance on a mishap. Watched a friend slip into a (fortuantely) shallow shrund a few years back. Have fun, be safe. We're for Swiss Arete and the Palisades Traverse on 6/3-6 but may plan B if the long walk in is too snow bound (won't have time). Please advise conditions on return.

hey tiffany look at all the other posts from people who have been up in the area. if you're planning on bivying at iceberg lake and doing the MR in the morning expect cold temps and slick, frozen snow. we saw two teams roped up doing the MR...i'd definitly take crampons and an axe

Tiffany: Look at the photos of Thor peak from May 26, 2004 - just posted by Bob R. There is a photo looking toward Iceberg lake, which clearly shows the coulour above the lake. It is obvious there is still a lot of snow above Upper Boy Scout Lake. You could not attempt Whitney without Ice Axe and crampons. At least there is still is enough snow you really do need them. Sure beats carrying them if you could have done without. Have fun and be safe.

The view of the MR couloirs that I had from Thor late last week confirms crampons in my opinion.

We backpacked up to Iceberg lake over the weekend. Snow was getting soft by about 10 - 11:00 am up to about Iceberg lake. Some previous postholing was evident between Upper Boy Scout lake and Iceberg. Except for the hill just above Upper Boy Scout lake, crampons were not needed up to Iceberg lake. We skiped the sand chute (full of snow on the bottom 2/3)going up to Iceberg lake in favor of the waterfall pitch.

We spent a nice afternoon at Iceberg, doing some exploring. Night was brisk and cold. As soon as the sun went down it got much colder very fast.

We ran into Kashcraft and his group. They said the stashed their crampons on the top of the Whitney Russell pass and didn't use them any more on the way to Russell.

As recommended, Ice axes and crampons were definately needed above Iceberg lake to the summit. The snow was good and hard in the morning. Most of the route above Iceberg has good snow coverage with some dry areas close to the notch. It was still 35 degrees, cold and windy in the shade up by the notch by 9:00 am but was up to about 60 degrees down at Iceberg lake by 11:00 am.

Thanks for the sound advice about going prepared. Ice axe and crampons are heavy but when you need them, they can save you from serious hurt.