Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Mt. Russell Exposure

I've read, seen and heard many stories about the exposure on the east ridge of Mt. Russell. Some say the exposure is terrifying, while some say it's nothing at all.

I would love to climb Russell (it's a beautiful peak), but I'd hate to get up to the ridge and have to turn back because of the exposure. It seems one's reaction to the exposure depends on many factors, including experience, mental fortitude, and fear of heights.

My question is this: how do you think a person (i.e.,me) who's climbed top-roped on 5.8 rock and had no difficulties free climbing up the cliff on the Mt. Williamson west face route (Class 3?) do on the east ridge of Russell? I'm trying to make an honest assessment, and any input would be appreciated.

Thanks, Tom

I think you'd do fine with your experience, but it is hard to say about exposure.
What I'd say is that to virtually guarantee success is to do it with a partner, and bring 75 feet of line, so that you can be belayed if needed. So much of that is psychological, that if you get to "that spot", and you find that you are tightening up, the mental backup of a belay will make it easy.

Even if alone, it is possible to rig a safety line, which will help the mental process a lot.

There are moments when the exposure can get to you, but as Ken said if you are truly worried about it, just bring a little bit of 8mm line to ease your fears. I soloed it, and I don't even do much technical climbing, and I was fine. Most of it isn't that exposed, just a few sections, and you are correct in that it is an awesome peak well worth the climb.
Eric J Lee

I don't do any real rock climbing..other then a little sport climbing. So for me class 3 is all I would normally do.

When you approach the east arete of Russell you see what looks like a knife ridge sticking up. You walk down this crack with a wall on the left and a rolling ledge to the right. There is really no problem walking down the crack. However I personally found the exposure quite nerve racking.. walking down a sidewalk is not difficult. But lift the sidewalk 1000 feet into the air and your emotions can get to you.

It sounds like from what you have done, though, you can do it.

Thanks for the input. It seems that the exposure is more mental that anything else.

Ken: I like your idea of bringing a partner and rope. Just the idea of having a rope along and a partner to belay me breaks down some mental barriers.

EricJLee: Congrats on soloing the mountain. I'm pretty sure I won't go solo. My fears tends to run wild when I'm solo. On the other hand, maybe that's one more mental goliath I need to overcome.

Stephen: Thanks for the great mental picture. I think I'll just have to give Russell a try and see how it goes. Just be stack the odds in my favor, I'll bring a rope, at least one friend, and my courage.

if you do bring a rope bring a few pieces of protection to, and a few harnesses, and a few slings and a belay device. a rope would be useless without something to anchor it into. i can't think of one move on the ridge that would be worth hauling a line and all that stuff though. you really don't need it....

On May 5th, there is a thread about the South Face of Russell. I feel I need to go back there you know and I wanted to know if it was possible to go up one way and down the other. In a response SPC included some photos which show the East arete and the South Face headwall. They are great and really help. Take a look at them.