I understand from previous posts that Russell has a class 3 section on the right side of the headwall. Is it exposed class 3, like Muir? I think I read it is about 40 feet long. Can it be done without a rope?
Is the approach best from Upper Boy Scout Lake as discussed in the Bob Rockwell variation thread.....or is the approach best from Iceberg lake? It seems the approach from Iceberg lake up to the headwall would be very loose.
Have not made it up there yet... but here is a link to Bob R's website with pictures of the route. I was originally thinking about going up to Iceberg. But, after seeing what Bob did, I am going to give UBL a try...
When I ran into Bob, I think he said he liked this route better than the ridge traverse...
Stephen, Last year I did a day climb with a friend of Russell and Whitney, the pictures are located here: <a href = "http://members16.clubphoto.com/steve744076/1680843/guest.phtml"> 10-10-03 Mt. Russell, Whitney MR </a>. This was very enjoyable. The class 3 East Arete was a lot of fun and the exposure wasn't as bad as it looks from the Russell-Carillon Saddle. You can get here by either the Rockwell Variation (past UBSL) or turn right and climb before UBSL (the way I usually go). Either of these would be easier than going to Iceberg and over Whitney-Russell Pass. We ejoyed the East Arete and went to both Russell summits and then down climbed the SF headwall. The headwall is located about 50-75 ft west of the East summit. There was a sling around a rock at the top. We did not use a rope. I did not feel any exposure since you are in a chute near the top 10-15 ft. From here it is 20-30 feet of easy downclimbing. Then you go down some really loose talus and scree and eventually pass the turnoff to your left of the route Bob R takes from UBSL. If you keep heading south you get to Whitney-Russell Pass and are able to descend to Iceberg. From here you can go up the MR if you like. Here are three pictures of the Russell headwall from the top, beginning downclimb, and almost down. Hope this helps.
Yep, and a nice climb it is from Tulainyo Lake. Mostly class 2 with a little easy 3 at the top.
Last I was there, the original summit register was intact, with a couple of entries by Norman Clyde. There is also a very intriguing story in there on why and how the register "disappeared" for ten years.
I know there is a concern about advertising the existence of original summit registers. I don't know what to do about that, but I don't believe they should be kept secret. Take it as an invitation to climb these sometimes obscure peaks, to see history first-hand while it is still there.
SBC: thanks for your information about Mt Russell. We took along a copy of your pictures and when we got to the south headwall, I knew exactly were to go. The east ridge route still has snow in the crack and would be very dangerous.
Last entry was October 23, 2003.
I am not sure we would have tried the south headwall without reading what you had to say and taking along your photos. We took a rope just in case, but when we got there we left it behind.
Kashcraft, you're welcome and glad you had a good climb. I was on Thor yesterday and was looking at the R-C saddle. To get to the saddle looks doable but I was wondering about snow coverage on the north side of the east arete. Thanks for your info.
