Tripper: I was just there on Wed, 5/5; and there are lots of day hike permits available right now during the week for the main trail (I'm thinking of getting one for this Monday). As for conditions, also on Wednesday, I talked to three people who just completed the mountaineering route and they definitely needed crampons and ice axes. I called the ranger today (Friday) and she said snow would probably stop uncramponed travel just a few miles in on the main trail. She also said that there are two mama bears with cubs that like to make their presence known. And I heard someone at the store (on Wednesday) saying it gets busier as it approaches Memorial Day, and then slows some in early June - I took that to mean that one might have a good chance of getting day hike permits for the main during those down times (but, again, crampons and axes may also be necessary).