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Joined: Apr 2004
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Hi..I was hoping to pick some brains about our upcoming trip (hopefully) to Mount Whitney. I've just spent the last several hours reading (and being inspired!) much of last year's postings here on the forum..what an excellent resource!

First, the plan. My girlfriend and I are planning on coming out there in September to attempt to summit Whitney. We recently got rejected for our lottery application to go up the main route, which in retrospect I think is probably a blessing since I think the MR is more our style. We are experienced hikers who know our limitations and enjoy the challenge of tough routes. Last year we went up Longs Peak in Rocky Mountain Nat'l Park and it was a blast! I have pictures, a trip report, and even made an hour long video about our trip (click on Longs Peak Report on this page):

<a href="http://home.carolina.rr.com/beachav8r/">

Homepage </a>

We plan on flying into Los Angeles, then driving up to the Whitney area to acclimate for a couple of days (we are from NC). Can anyone recommend some good bed & breakfast type places in the Whitney (Lone Pine?) area? Something with quaint cabins (the whole romantic getaway portion of the trip..hehe..) would be nice.

It is my understanding (after reading the forum) that we don't need a lottery slot to do the MR and that all we need is an overnight permit, is this correct? Can I get this permit as early as this week (3rd week of April)? The Inyo National Forest site does a really weak job of describing the requirements for permits (in my opinion). The way I read it, if we go up and down the MR we don't need to apply during the lottery. If we had been planning to go up the MR and down the Main Trail we WOULD need a permit via the lottery system (we don't plan on doing this..we want to go up and down via the MR)..

And last..does anyone have any recommendations for good warm-up acclimitization day hikes in the area?

We plan on making ourselves a nice little DVD set to music and stills, just like we did with Longs Peak..I'll post another message here after we do the climb if anyone is interested (it will be free..just a couple bucks for the packaging).

Which brings up another point..has anyone here summited Whitney via the MR and also summited Longs Peak via the Keyhole Route..and could they make a comparison? My girlfriend wasn't crazy about the "Narrows" on Longs Peak (see this picture):

http://www.x-plane.org/users/beachav8r/wed38.jpg

smile Thanks for any help..suggestions..!

BeachAV8R

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beachav8r@carolina.rr.com

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If you want a romantic Bed and Breakfast in Lone Pine, you'll have to look elsewhere. There is no hotel remotely romantic or cozy anywhere near Lone Pine... sorry. You'd have to drive 90 miles north to Mammoth Lakes for anything along those lines. All the places in Lone Pine are utilitarian and no-nonsense. If you get a King sized bed you're on the fancy side of things, literally.

If you change your mind and want to do the main Whitney Trail, there is another lottery on May 1, where you can get whatever weekday you want (basically) in September.

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Lol..ok..thanks for the info. On our trip to RMNP when we climbed Longs Peak we stayed at an awesome B&B before tackling the mountain...then we stayed one night after we got down..which was great. Looks like we will have to wait until AFTER the climb this time for the luxury..we are planning on driving to Vegas after hiking around (and hopefully up) Whitney..so I'm sure we can find some decompression sites there wink

And yeah..we got the notice in the mail with our rejection about the 2nd lottery deal..but to tell you the truth I really like the route description and photos of the MR...seems more our style...

Thanks..!

BeachAV8R

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All trails in the area except for Mt. Whitney are not in the lottery. So the "North Fork of Lone Pine Creek" can be applied for exactly 6 months from the day you want to go. It you day hike the Mountaineers route (North Fork) you don't need a permit. Since you will be in the Whitney zone it will cost $15 a person for an overnight permit. It can be dayhiked reasonably in 10 -14 hours, depending on your comfort level.

If you are comfortable with some class 2/3 (10-20%) and don't mind following a small use trail, (which is easy to follow much of the time) you could really enjoy the route. It is for those folks looking for a greater adventure then the regular trail. There is nothing on that route as scarry looking as that picture of the Narrows route on Longs in Colorado you included in your post.

There are many pictures on this web site and in Bob R's photo album @www.clubphoto.com of the tricky parts. It is way easier now to keep on the path. A search of the MR routes would also offer some helpful tips.

When you are at the Whitney Portal store pick up the Mountain lore book. It is a very detailed description of the whole MR trail and many other good things to know.

Personally given the choice, I would pick the MR any day...less crowded and more interesting.

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Thanks Richard..just what I was thinking too. The Narrows on Longs Peak was definitely a "high" sensation..lol..

I did a search on the 2003 archives here on the site and came up with a wealth of information on the Mountaineer's Trail...I saved a bunch of the site links for further study. I assume most people "base camp" down around Upper or Lower BS Lake and then summit with a day-pack (light load)..? We are thinking of doing it just like Longs Peak and hiking up to "base camp", spending a night, doing the summit, coming back down for another night..then back down off the mountain. I like 3-day / 2-night hikes...I'm not big on the single-day grueling hike up and back, I take way too many pics and video to go running up and down a mountain..lol..

I visited the Portal Store's online store but only saw T-Shirts for sale..is there a way to order that book on-line by chance?

Thanks again for the info..I'm going to send in my permit application Monday morning..then all summer I'll be reading books and studying maps dreaming of our big adventure! smile

-Chris
BeachAV8R

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Hey Beach: I have usually backpacked close to Iceberg lake or at Iceberg lake (12600 feet), thinking it was better to get to the highest lake the first day. That is a tiring 6 hours with a backpack. From there it is only 1900 feet (2-2 1/2 hours) to the top.

I currently think that a better option is to camp at Upper Boy Scout Lake. It is at 11300 feet, more then half way. It is better protected from cold and wind then Iceberg lake. The big advantage is not having to carry a heavy pack that last 1300 feet. Last Summer when we dayhiked the MR I was surprised how much easier it was to day hike from UBSL to Iceberg, when compared to slogging up the hill with a heavy pack.

That book is not in the online Whitney Portal store. You can get it at Amazon.com I did a search there for "Mountain Lore" and it was there. The book has many helpful hints about altitude sickness, food and all kinds of stuff. It was very interesting and I learned a lot reading it. His route description of the MR is very good also.

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I looked at your photos. That one of the trail etched in the side of the mountain...looks kind of terrifying.

I don't think the MR is for everyone. Many people just like the safety of the regular trail. You just keep walking and you will eventually make it.

However the regular trail is very long. 11 miles long. When you are half way at trail camp you see only the side of Mt Whitney way off in the distance. Kind of hard to describe what that is like. After 4 hours on the trail the peak looks as far away as when you started. When you finally get there you come up from the back. Nothing looks like the postcard picture you will send home and what you see from the Whitney portal campground

But then there is the MR. Trail is shorter, like around 5 miles. You start up the regular trail, seeing the Mountain straight ahead. Then you enter the North Fork. Once you come over the ridge to Lower Boy Scout lake you see it again, closer and straight ahead. It is magnificant. Then you go higher you pass Upper Boy Scout lake. A little higher and you are right in front of the Whole Whitney crest, including all of the Keeler needles. When you get to Iceberg lake you are right in front of the magnificant 2000 foot Whitney face.

The price of taking the MR is you get to take it to the mountain a better way, and every day you look at the poster hanging in your room...you remember and you trace your steps right up the canyon. For example, you can see the last grove of trees just below Upper boy scout lake, sitting out in the open. You were there. Going up the regular trail you experience nothing you see. The trail (except for the very bottom) is hidden from view, not even in the poster.

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Thanks Richard and Heather..your descriptions sound awesome. I was looking at pictures of the coulier that you climb to get to the top via the MR and it reminded me a lot of the "Trough" portion of Longs Peak..lots of loose rock of all sizes and shapes. The one thing that the MR might seem to have that Longs didn't is the section people keep refering to as the "Traverse" and from what I can gather it sounds like a very short traverse across a snow/ice field after you top out of the coulier? I've read differing accounts that sometimes you can get around it just be descending 50 or 100 feet and also I've read of people roping in and using ice-axes (just for self-arrestment protection) and crampons. Typically in late September it seems like most of the reports read that this section is relatively clear of snow...but it does have me wondering whether I should bring crampons and ice-axes. I've definitely decided to bring helmets for us..don' want to get knocked on the noggin' by falling rock. smile

Thanks for all the info thus far..I'm so excited I don't know how I'll survive the summer on these hills less than 7000' out here! <g>

Edit: Found the book on Amazon.com..ordered it..and I'm still undecided on how high we will make "base camp"...I'm still soliciting for more opinions..lol..

BeachAV8R

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Hey Beach here are photos of (in order) The EB ledges, from the tallest tree on bot left heading right is about 2' wide, then right below the notch and the class 111 finish to the summit. http://community.webshots.com/photo/123630074/123631190agSXiE http://community.webshots.com/photo/123630074/123631190agSXiE http://community.webshots.com/photo/123630074/123631190agSXiE

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At the top of the Notch (14100 feet) you have two choices for the last 400 feet. One is to turn left and go up the "staircase." I have always gone this way, and most go this way. Except for the first ten feet it is pretty easy climbing with multiple routes (left or right). Toward the top there is always a small patch of snow in the center, easy to go around.
You can easily cross over to the right side about 1/3 of the way up or close to the top and then make your way through the large boulders to the top. If you stay on the left side the whole way to the top you will have to do more class three climbing. I Love the staircase chute. It is the culmination of the climb to the top. You get to the top and step out suddenly on the summit plateau. I have been up the chute with friends with no climbing experience. I have never even taken a rope up there. There would be no need unless it was covered with snow.

Others who don't want to do the staircase climb just keep going straight within a few hundred yards come out on the summit plateau more on the west side. Early in the summer it still has snow and ice. And since it is about 45-50 degrees people have died sliding down the snow toward the drop off hundreds of feet below. In the book you ordered he does not recommend to go that way. Late in the season (like August/ September) there is little snow on the traverse. Especially this year since the snow is melting faster then normal. If you go in September you would carry your ice axe/ crampons up there for nothing, seeing only a few patches of snow.

About the helmit. From Iceberg lake you ascend the long colour called the Mountaineers route. Some of it is very loose and groups above you will knock rocks and boulders loose. Try to stay on the left side out of the center as far as you can. A friend of mind got nailed in the arm up in the chute last summer by a climber above. The rock was coming down and hit another rock, breaking in two. The smaller piece was sent his direction and he didn't have time to get out of the way. He was not hurt fortunately. That is just the way it is.

Enjoy the experience!

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Beach- If you don't mind the increased pitch and some class 3 climbing, the MR is a good way to go. The E ledges can be a bit challenging for some, the exposure bothers some people. I suggest bringing a length of rope in case either you or your girlfriend gets uncomfortable coming down the E ledges - there are a couple of short sections where it is easier if you just lower your packs by rope.

The MR route can be climbed as a day hike, a 2 day trip (camping at either lower or upper boy scoute lake) or a 3 day trip (camping at LBSL the first night and Iceberg the second). I think it mostly depends on how well you acclimatize and how hard you want to work each day. They can all be fun.

I suggest that you climb the rocks just to the left of the chute above Iceberg. The scree in the chute usually causes you to slide back one step for every 2 - 3 that you take up, and the rocks are easier than they look when you are standing at the base. I also agree with the previous posts that it is better to climb the left chute above the notch than to take the traverse. Even in September I've seen a fair amount of hard snow/ice on the traverse and it's not worth the risk. Also, I recommend that you get an early start so that you have less risk of rock climbers accidentally kicking stones down on your head. A helmet is a cheap insurance policy.

A note on weather - September is often one of the best times to climb Whitney, but every day in the Sierra's can bring sun, rain or snow or all 3 on the same day. Not a big deal if you are prepared, but a very big deal if you're not.

Finally, think about flying in to San Francisco rather than LA. Then you can drive through Yosemite (camp and do some day hiking in Tuolome). If you go that route, there is a great place to stay right on June Lake (just off 395) that you guys should enjoy. Lone Pine is a quick drive down from there.

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It's also worth thinking about flying into Reno instead of SFO or LAX. You can often get cheaper fares to Reno. The drive down 395 is scenic, through the Walker River Canyon and past Mono Lake. Mammoth Lakes makes a good first night's stop, about 3 hours south of Reno and 2 hours north of Lone Pine. From Mammoth, there are lots of opportunities for day hikes for acclimation. Check out my 2001 Mt. Whitney trip report on my <a href="http://www.mtritter.org">WWW site</a> for suggestions. You can also hike part of the Pacific Crest Trail or the Shadow Creek Trail over to the base of Mt. Ritter (my favorite for some strange reason).

On the way down or back, be sure to drive out to the ghost town of Bodie...worth half a day, at least.

...just another alternative..

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I second the idea of flying into Reno. You said you were thinking of flying into LA, but which airport, LAX, Orange County, John Wayne,San Bernadino, etc.? Depending on which time of the day and which airport you fly into, you could have a nightmare of a time getting out of the LA basin only to run into another nightmare going through Pamona and then Rancho (Santa Fe, Cucumunga?, can't remember which is after Pamona). Reno would be a much easier trip, just a straight shot down 395 and once your out of Carson City it's smooth sailing all the way down to Lone Pine.Watch out for the Mono County Sheriff when going through the Mammoth area and the CHP, Inyo Sheriff and Bishop PD when going through Bishop, if you go 5 mph over the posted speed limit your getting a ticket, because, as they told me, "There are a lot of families walking our streets here in Bishop and we can't tolerate reckless drivers".

Have you considered flying into Sacramento? I've always found cheap airfare at SAC "Intergalactic".
Good Luck.


To Strive, To Seek, To Find, and Not To Yield.
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Thanks for all the tips..they will be considered and implemented! smile As for flying out there, my girlfriend works for USAirways, and I'm a pilot for another company..so we fly for free on the airlines (big bonus for all our travel adventures!). There is a non-stop direct flight to both SFO and LAX out of Charlotte, so both of those options are available. If we flew into Reno or Sacramento we'd have to make a connection to another carrier. We are planning on making this something like a 8 or 9 day trip, so we might consider staying in SFO one night, enroute to the Whitney area a night, a few nights on the mountain and then driving to Vegas for another few days. We are really flexible (right now) so any suggestions on where to stop and what to see are greatly appreciated. We've both been to San Francisco before but neither of us has ventured inland from that point, so we haven't seen Yosemite or anything else..!

We are really looking forward to the trip..and the helpful advice here really makes a big difference in planning and preparation.

One more question..is there a good outfitting store in the Whitney / Lone Pine area? Does the Whitney Portal Store carry things such as gas cannisters for my MSR Pocketrocket? Just need to know so I can pick them up in SFO or LA before I drive out there since I can't put fuel cannisters in my luggage.

Also..do you guys carry pepper spray on the trails out there? Another thing I can't put in luggage...we carry small ones out here when hiking the Blue Ridge Mountains...some consider it silly with only reclusive black bears out here..but ya' just never know! smile

Thanks..!

BeachAV8R

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You don't need pepper spray, the bears keep away from you. They are fairly common in the Portal parking lot at night and I have even seen 2 on the main trail when starting up around 3:00 am. But they are docile and not aggresive, I think pepper spray is unncessary. The minute the bears see you or smell you, they skeddadle pretty quickly.

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Beach, last year there was no bear canister requirement in the north fork drainage, there are easier places for the bears to steal a free lunch.

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After you get to LAX you will be heading up the 405. There is an Adventure 16 on Pico Blvd a little northeast of the 10/ 405 interchange. It is not far off the freeway. Go to their site and look at the map.

There is also an REI close to 3/4 miles from LAX a little southeast on Rosecrans.....or another one up off 18 freeway 3/4 miles west of the 18/405 interchange.

Any of these stores would be easy to go to and not far out of your way.

Lone Pine Sporting goods & the Whitney Portal store have some stuff but I don't know if they have fuel for your stove.

I have only seen a bear one time near the portal campsite, during the night rummaging for food left out on a table. I never worry about them....just make sure your car is clean visually and free of food. A bear can still smell a candy bar under a blanket. They can mistake a cell phone for a candy bar etc.

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Beach,
Wilson's Eastside Sports in Bishop is where everyone pretty much shops for their outdoor stuff. As you are heading south on 395 the store will be in an inconspicuos shop on your left about half way through the town, which would be near the 100th stop light. smile

As for things to do on your way from SFO. Pier 39 in SF is where everyone goes to do the tourist thing. In Sacramento you can visit Old Town Sacramento for a glimpse back to the old west. From Sac you can head south on HWY 99 to Manteca( you can stop at the Hershey Chocolate factory in nearby Oakdale) and take HWY 120 all the way through Yosemite to HWY 395 , where you turn right and head south towards Lone Pine. While in Yosemite think about staying at the Awahanee Hotel( your girlfriend will think your the greatest for spending $300 on a hotel room) and think about doing the Mist Trail to the top of Vernal Falls. It's a great hike with a great view. While on 395 think about about stopping over in Mammoth Lakes for a few hours, take the shuttle down to Agnew or Reds Meadow and take the short hike to Devils Postpile. Or if you have a whole day do a round trip hike to Thousand Island Lake and back, it's a nice hike and would be great for your conditioning.

Once your in Bishop, if you're hungry, there is a great Italian Restaurant on the left side of the road( as your heading South. Sorry I'm so vague, I know where these places are by memory not by name).
Hope some of this info helps. If you end up flying into LAX forget about all the stuff I just wrote. smile


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Definitely go through Yosemite. It cannot be described. The Awahanee Hotel is a great idea, but the waiting list is something like years long.
But you never know. There are some nice B&B's right outside of Yosemite. Perhaps the next nite in Mammoth, also some nice B&B's. You'll now be acclimatized to 8k or so. Stop at Wilson's, they are an amazing store. The store in Lone pine has the cannisters, saw them last week. Before you get to Bishop, you can take off up Rock Creek, and can camp at around 10k, or you can go down through Lone Pine, and turn off the Whitney road to the Horseshoe Meadows area, also 10k, and spend a day in either area doing day hikes.
Now you're ready, both body and soul!

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Hehe..I should hire you all as "itinerary planners".. <G> I like everything I'm hearing so far...I'm tending toward SFO and coming up through the scenic route now. SFO is such a beautiful city to start with..no sense getting culture shocked in L.A. right off the bat smile

Come to think of it we probably won't stay a night in SFO..probably just head for the hills and start acclimitizing. Last years trip up Longs Peak we hung out in Estes Park for 3 days prior to the big hike up Longs and that seemed just fine...

How will the crowds be at Yosemite in late September on a weekday..? I guess kids will be back in school so maybe it won't be too bad?

I'll have to do a web-search on the Awahanee..when we were in RMNP (if any of you head that way anytime) we stayed at a gorgeous place called the Baldpate Inn...had our own "Honeymooners Cabin"...really nice. smile

Thanks for all the suggestions thus far..I'm saving it all to text file so I can print it out and sit down with a map.

BeachAV8R

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