Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Whitney vs Rainer

There are no actual checkpoints to pass thru. Getting permits and talking to Rangers is all voluntary as a clever person with a little luck could blend in with a crowd and never run into a ranger. Even then, the rangers have allowed a number of folks to go up alone and some of those never came back.

Both of my tries were 3-days: up from Paradise or White River to base camp (Muir or Schurman) on afternoon of first day, second day spent goofing off. Midnight of second day until midnight of next day were for going up, decending to to base camp to grab gear, descend to cars and drive back to Seattle. The third day was always the killer with every one of the 24 hours spent in motion.

Jim

PS: made it all the way from Muir but never got past Schurman. Had a BLAST both times!!!

santacruzer member # 1538

posted March 03, 2004 11:38 PM
--------------------------------------------------Have any of you climbed Ranier in one day? I understand it makes for a long and challenging day, but "weather permitting" is often accomplished. Also, will the rangers allow climbers to continue past their checkpoint with lite equipment.

Everything written here about Whitney v. Rainier is very correct. I would just say from my perspective (comparing classic routes on both mountains) that Whitney is just hiking, Rainier, on the other hand, is mountain climbing. For both, however, one has to be in a very good shape and know how to control the paste to avoid a high altitude sickness.

Some time ago I tried (successfully) to climb each mountain in one day (never tried Rainier). But than I realized that I was missing my enjoyment, especially views. I changed my goal to sleeping on the top of a big mountain I climb, at least to get there with my full equipment. This, however, due to the heavy backpack takes 3-4 days instead of one. I can experience weather changes from quiet, warm and sunny days to noisy, windy, snowy, cloudy, stormy and freezing days and nights. Yes, even in summer! It may happen on Rainier, Shasta, Baker and any other mountain. One has to be prepared for such conditions, not just count on luck.

Once a year I take people (whoever wants to go) on the classic route of Mt. Shasta. I teach basic techniques such as how to climb w/o crampons different slopes, how to use ice-ax, and how to self-arrest (and anything you would like to know). Check my website, <a href="http://www.worldofadventures.com/marcus/" target="mrd"><font color="blue">worldofadventures.com/marcus</font></a> , for some descriptions and pictures and email me if you are interested. I'm planning next trip on 29/30 of May. Of course, it is free.

I climb (mostly solo): Rainier every year, Shasta a few times a year, and Whitney every year in winter.

By the way, in order to get a climbing permit on Rainier it has to be at least 2-pearsons team (no problem). For a solo permit, one has to be experienced (It's a totally different process.). If you are not roped, the ranger will ask you to rope to each other or to return. If you solo without a solo-permit, the ranger will ask you to return. That's my experience.

Jim in Huntington Beach-

While you are correct that there is not a formal check point to get past the rangers at Camp Muir, they got more formal about it starting last year when they had so many fatalities and serious injuries. When I was last up there, I saw them meet with every climbing team at Camp Muir and turn more than one group back. I don't know whether they have any legal standing to stop you from climbing just because you are not prepared or experienced enough, but I can tell you that, if they didn't, then they were just very persuasive and convinced people to go back down.

Just to make this relevant to Whitney, every climber on Whitney should be asking themselves the same questions that the rangers ask people on Rainier - are you prepared (equipment, ability and mental/physical shape) to climb this route on this day in these conditions? I think you should ask yourself that question periodically as you climb any mountain, and be honest with your answer. I think it makes you a better and safer climber. I'll get down off my soap box now.

Just want to add another Rainier book to the list. Mike Gauthier's "Mount Rainier A Climbing Guide" is an excellent guide for Rainier, as one might expect -- Mike is the chief climbing ranger on Ranier. He was mentioned in a previous message.
I hope some day to climb Rainier and meet Mike up there.
Are there any other "Grey Beards" who would like to join me? Want to do Rainier or any other US or Mexico/South America mountains, time/money/skills permitting.