Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Winter Access Forum Mountaineer’s Route Conditions for 5/24/25?

Hi everyone, need some advice on the Mountaineer’s Route for 5/24/2025.

Two of us are planning to head up the Mountaineer’s Route starting May 24 with an exit permit for May 26. We’ll be driving in from the South Bay.

I’m mainly wondering about typical snow conditions in late May — especially on the chute and the Final 400.

For context, I’ve self-guided a summit on Mt. Shasta (2022) and did a guided climb on Mt. Rainier (2023), both with axe and crampons.
My partner is a strong marathon runner (Jersey City ‘25 – 2:41:51) and has 4 days of ice axe/crampon experience from an Adirondacks expedition in Dec 2024.

My go/no-go criteria is:
• I’ll track the Whitney forecast on mountain-forecast.com, specifically the 11,484 ft level.
• On 5/21, I’ll check the forecast for 5/23. If the weekend looks clear, no new snow for the week prior, and low wind — we’ll consider heading up.

Would love to hear your thoughts — do folks think Memorial Day is reasonable for the Mountaineer’s Route?

I personally think mountaineering boots are a must. If the weather’s stable, we’re considering a 3-season tent.

Thanks in advance for any input!

Hi JaxClimb,

On May 18, 2008 Bob R rallied a solid group of WPSMB faithful for a day hike up the Mountaineers Route and then down the Main Trail from the Summit.

Through the end of April in 2008 and 2025, the California Department of Water Resources data reveals the Southern Sierra Snowpack to be similar.

Bob R has documented the group's May 18, 2008 outing in splendid detail with photos. To enjoy his report, refer to the link on this message board titled "WPSMB Member Photo Album Link." Then go to Bob R's set of TRs and retrieve the Album " 5-18-2008 Whitney Mountaineers Route."

We do not know how the weather will playout over the next 19 days before you start on May 24, but Bob's TR should be helpful for planning your outing.

If you head up the Mountain May 24, please update us on the conditions you find.

Jim