Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Mountaineers Route?

I day hiked up the main trail last year and I'm in the lottery for this August. I'm not a climber, but I consider myself a strong hiker. Is the MR doable for someone like me? I read about exposure and needing a helmet and I wonder if I could make it. I can read a topo and use a compass.

Two of the questions you should ask yourself:

1. Do I feel comfortable on exposed Class 3?

2. Do I have good route-finding skills?

Look at the pictures that many members have posted of the EB Ledges and the route above the Notch.

Although the route up the North Fork is becoming more and more defined, you still need route-finding skills on many parts of the route.

For a "strong hiker" it is doable. If dayhiking, get an early start.

If you can, you may find it very helpful to hike up part of the way (at least to LBSL) during the daylight hours sometime before you go all the way. Being familiar with the route before the big day is very helpful if you start out early in the dark before sunrise. This is especially true of the area around the EB ledges.

A helmet is defintely a good idea. I went up the MR last year without one and got caught in some rockfall below the Notch that came down from about a thousand feet up. I wasn't hit, but I'll be bringing one up next time.

If climbing the class 3 chutes above the Notch bothers you, you can avoid them by contouring up and around to the backside.

Countouring along the backside brings up a whole different set up of issues though. The backside can often be icy and or snowy even when the MR can be snow free.

I personally felt that the hardest part of the NF/MR the first time I did it was the route finding before you even get to LBSL. Proper conditioning is one thing, route finding is something totally different. Late in the season, after the snow has melted, is the hardest time what with all the brush and thickets getting in your way.

Helmets are definately recommended in any season, late in the year you can get by without crampons.And, I personally don't think the exposure is that bad and I am certainly no rock climber.

Yeh USC! Go up the NF with someone familiar with the route the first time. The EL exposure is quick and painless, when you get to Iceberg Lake look up and don't let the MR intimidate you, it is definately doable. I did it the first time with no previous class 111 experience. The EL were the toughest part mentally, and if it is to much for you, fight your way up or down through the brush in the creek. Have fun

USCDAD.....MR is doable without mountaineering experience or rock climbing experience.If you think the ledges are going to be a problem, check out some of the pictures of the ledges posted by BobR and others. May want to take a 20ft piece of 7mm cord to lower packs at the ledges if you feel uncomfortable downclimbing with a pack at the ledges.FOR SURE, take a helmet. Rockfall is always a concern on this route!!There is rockfall both from other climbers as well as the natural rockfall occuring from the freeze/thaw cycle. Watch also for ice above the notch.I would caution anyone without mountaineering skills and an ice axe to avoid the above mentioned alternative of traversing the north side.Many have lost their lives attempting this.If you can use a compass and a topo you should have no trouble. For possibly the best route finding description, buy Dougs book "Mountain Lore from The Whitney Store.I found it invaluble. Take it with you or copy pertinent info carefully and take it in a waterproof baggie.Remember, take the helmet! There is a reason that a "Litter" makes its home atop one of the prominant bolders at Iceberg Lake.Be safe and enjoy!

routefinding in the canyon below LBSL was the difficult part for us. We stayed on the north side of the canyon too long and had to bushwhack through the plants that grow right against the canyon wall. There are tons of really large aphids on the plants too, you will squish them all over you if you have to push through the plants. They look like blood when you squish them, so you come out looking kinda injured.

We did eventually emerge from the brush a little below the pine tree at the start of the ledges.

Our only wrong turn was not ducking under the brush to cross the creek to the south side at the right spot. There's a place where there's a tunnel under the brush and wen you look into it, it appears to be a dead end - but follow it for a little while and it opens up and crosses the creek.

Hi Bob,
I will have an opening on my MR over night permit for June 29,30 and July 1. I made the permit for two others beside myself and right now my nephew is taking up spot number two so that leaves me with an open number three spot.

We will probably do the route in two days but I left the third open just in case. We were talking about doing White Mt. on the way home too.

If you think that this time is good for you let me know, we would love to have our esteemed board member on the trip. Kashcraft and his family will be on the route at the same time, they will be starting out on Monday the 28th.

If Bob doesn't think that this time frame will work for him then some one else with MR route experience, and, who doesn't have a permit is more than welcome to express their interest in going. I will take names and contact you to find out about your experience level.
Thanks,
SS

PS. I should also mention that my nephew may not be able to go, football may prevent him from getting away. If this is the case I will then have two open spots if Bob can't go. I will keep everyone posted on this.

Sounds good keep me posted.

Stryder, I would like to join you. I can be with your party for June 29 and 30 for sure; won't know until later whether I can extend it to July 1.

It will be nice to see Kashcraft too; we have traded a few e-mails.

Contact me at rockwellbob@hotmail.com when it get closer, so we can discuss the details.

Looking forward to it!

Alright, Great! Now I really have to start getting in shape, don't want to look like a pansy in front of my nephew and the message boards most esteemed member.

Stryder: I have been keeping an eye on the board and weather. From what I have learned about you on the board, pansy isn't in your vocabulary. Bring Bob R. along....that would be cool. Our plan is still to go for the summit on Tuesday morning...early if snow/ice isn't a big issue...a little latter if it is icy. We might start down from our campsite at Iceberg or just below (in the flat area to the left half way through the Moraine field) that afternoon. Hard to say at this point. We will watch for you. I will get back to you about the snow after we check out the area Memorial day weekend.

HELP!!! Someone "jacked" my thread. You guys owe me a cheeseburger at the store. LOL

uscdad: The MR is for a person "seeking greater adventure" Most of the class 2/3 climbing is not that bad. These days, with pictures of the Ebersbacher ledges, the chute above the Notch and photos along the trail...it is much easier to know where you are going. A helmet is the only real important thing...especially above Iceberg lake. Pick up the Mountain Lore from the Whitney Store book...it has a great explanation of where to go so you won't get off the trail...much of the MR has a thin use trail up to the Iceberg lake. Above that you go straight up to the Notch and then climb left at the first chute to the left. People have described that as a giant staircase...about 400 feet long. Some go straight at the notch around to the back and then loop back around....maybe an option later in the summer when it is not so icy..I have never gone that way....

If you like cross country traveling the MR is for you.

Sorry we hijacked your post. I have taken many people up the MR, including my children when they were younger (8-12 years old), Scouts (12-15 years old) and my wife and Sister in Law (no climbing experience) and friends. I wouldn't say you need climbing experience since it can be done without a rope. It helps to read up on the trail or go with someone who has been there. My first trip up the North Fork and MR, we didn't go the easiest way. There is much information on the board about the North Fork/Mr and many pictures. Read what you can and look at the pictures. And being a strong hiker with a desire for "a little more adventure" you would really enjoy it. It is way better then the busy & long Mt. Whitney trail that comes up on the back side of the mountain.

If I don't get a permit this summer for the main trail, I'll give the MR a try. Next summer I'll skip the lottery and do the MR. Thanks for all the great info.