Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Questions from a first-time Whitney summiter

Hi everyone,

I'm a seasoned hiker about to attempt his first ascent (solo) of Whitney on July 25/26, and I wanted to run some questions by the community, if I may. I know that solo attempts carry more risk (my partner had to back out due to injury), so if many voices start yelling at me to not be an idiot, I'll certainly take their words to heart. So, to the questions:

1. I've been awarded a lottery permit for July 25/26 (hooray!). However, further reading has strongly suggested that I build in at least two days at Whitney Portal to acclimate, and perhaps do a day hike to Meysen Lake or Lower Boy Scout Lake to get used to hiking at altitude. (I've been trying to get in as many high peaks as I can - Baldy, San Gorgonio, San Jacinto, Humphreys in Arizona...) I don't currently have a camping reservation for Whitney Portal, but according to Recreation.gov, it's all first-come-first-served in July. What are my chances of snagging a campsite? Assuming I confirm my permit (a person at the Inyo National Forest HQ told me they'd be sending me something to that effect, presumably in the next few weeks before my permit date), what exactly does that permit cover? Does it guarantee a WP campsite (I would imagine not), or a campsite further up at Outpost or Trail Camp (maybe?)? My thought is that if I were unable to get a WP campsite before my hike day, I'd just sleep in my car in the parking area. Not ideal, but doable. 

(BTW, the INF lady also assured me that I should plan to go ahead with my hike despite COVID restrictions and the recent rockslide. "Things are opening up!")  

2. I had been considering buying a GPS communicator (the Garmin one which can send text messages), but it's a bit pricey, and I already have a registered GPS beacon for safety's sake. Assuming I haul along enough charging bricks, I imagine I can get by with my phone for GPS purposes (I'll also of course bring a good synthetic map as a backup). I assume also that I'll be well out of cell range. My wife would like to know I'm, y'know, alive, so I thought perhaps I could ask other hikers who do have the Garmin to send a text message on my behalf. Any thoughts on this?

3. If I stay at Trail Camp and summit the following morning, should I consider staying an extra night at Trail Camp before heading back down to the car? I've done plenty of long mileage days (the 18-mile Vivian Creek Trail to Mt. San Gorgonio here in Southern California kicked my ass pretty well), but I wonder if I'll be too tuckered out from summiting. If that's the case, I'd technically be overstaying my permit. Would that mean big trouble?

4. Water. I have a 50oz bottle and a 2.5 liter bag in my pack, but I'll certainly need to refill. I need to obtain a water filter, so if anyone has any suggestions, I'm all ears (eyes?). Right now I'm considering the Katadyn Gravity BeFree 3L system, which needs a place to hang the bag, or else possibly the MSR MiniWorks EX Water Filter, which uses a pump. (Also, is the pond at Trail Camp a reasonable water source, or Consultation Lake?)

5. Wind. I've read that Trail Camp can be very windy. I have an REI Half Dome 2-person tent. I'm not really keen to purchase a whole new tent for this trip, so hopefully that'll do the job. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance for your help! Hopefully I can make this experience a great one.

Ned

its funny you ask about the wind and your tent. I was at trail camp with friends on a crazy windy night, I had an REI Half Dome tent, they had a Kelty something or another. In the middle of the night their tent was completely destroyed, we put rocks on top of all their gear and they slept in my tent for the remainder of the night. It was so windy three of us would hold onto the tent when the gusts would blow, then doze for a moment, and over and over again.

RE the Garmin/Texting - not all folks opt into the plans that include a small number of texts (the cheapest/basic plan does not include any text messages) - so unless there was an urgent need, I'd avoid asking someone to text your wife/family just to check in. (the cost is nominal if the plan doesn't include it - but it's still not free).

There can be spotty reception from the summit to get off a call and/or text though - so you could likely do that yourself from the top!

Your permit does not guarantee any campsite. They are all first come first serve.

I have made phone calls from the summit on Verizon. I wouldn't count on cell reception along the trail. You don't need a GPS. The trail is pretty obvious even in the dark by headlamp. Just a paper map to tick off the landmarks.

I would advise against overstaying your permit. You don't want to end the hike with a Federal ticket. The typical choice for backpackers is one night at Trail Camp, summit the next morning, then break camp and hike out.

There are plenty of places to get water all the way to Trail Camp. Start with 4 bottles (25 oz), two full and two empty. Refill two bottles all the way to Trail Camp. From there, depart for the summit with 4 bottles. The Trail Camp pond is the last reliable water source. There is a spring about 1/3 up the switchbacks, but it may be frozen early in the morning even in August. Water is heavy. You want to minimize weight to improve your chances of success.

Good luck!

Except for that one switchback above Mirror Lake where a few too many headlamp wearers have met their demise...

I know what place you are talking about. The trail makes an abrupt left turn in an area of solid rock - no real tread to follow. On our first summit, we missed the turn, then backed up a few feet in the dark, scanned with our headlamps, and saw the turn. If first timers who had never hiked by headlamp can find the continuation, anybody can.

Thanks, everyone, for your responses so far!

RICHARD: regarding water, I've got a 50oz bottle and a 2.5 liter hydro bag in my pack. On other long hikes up around 10 or 11 thousand feet, I haven't really felt them, weight-wise. Think I'll be all right if I start with them both full and then refill at Trail Camp?

RIDGELINE: From what I can tell, Trail Camp is quite rocky. Is it possible to even drive in tent stakes there? Hopefully my Half Dome will manage...

One other question: if I can't find a campsite at the Portal, is it permitted to sleep in my car, assuming I'm in the overnight lot? Another thread mentioned trying some other campsites (Tuttle Creel, for example) if there are no Portal campsites available, but I'd prefer to stay at that elevation if possible and not have too much up and down before I start up the mountain.

If I'm calculating correct, you will start with 8.7 pounds of water plus everything else that you will be carrying. If you start with 50 oz, that is about 3.1 pounds. Two 25 oz bottles refilled as needed will get you to Trail Camp. Why carry more weigh that you don't need. Personally, I would give myself every chance of success, but the decision is yours. By the way, leave your camping gear at Trail Camp and summit with a daypack. Campers leave their tents open and food in bear cans. There are no bears, but the marmots will chew through everything looking for food. I think campers support their tent ropes by tieing them to rocks. We never camped, but did 5 summits by dayhikes.

Camping is allowed at designated campgrounds in the Portal .
No where does it list the parking lots as campgrounds.

On the missed turn topic this area sees a recovery every so often, most often the trail is lost at trail camp area and traces of the old use trails are followed and cliff out at this location.

As mentioned go lite on water and refill as you go,somewhere I read you loose about 30 % of your energy from the elevation gain,so to adjust for the loss cut your carry weight.Use poles and your upper body also,Lock step as you get into the stairs and pace yourself. The hike isn't hard if you go slow,snack and replace the fluids.

Thanks, Doug. I suppose I should take that to mean that sleeping in cars is discouraged, kind of like at store parking lots (Wal-Mart used to be great about this, but on some recent road trips we've found them less accomodating). Would a ranger tap on my window to issue me a ticket?

My concern is, of course, acclimation, and I worry that if no campsite is available at the Portal, I'll have to find somewhere lower and not as useful for that purpose.

And I'll certainly make use of on-trail water! I just did a training hike with a new water filter and it worked a treat, so I'm not too worried about filling up as I go.

Thanks, Richard. When you say that campers leave their tents open, is that so that marmots, etc. can enter and look around without chewing through anything? Definitely will be summiting with a daypack: water, snacks, headlamp, some extra layers for warmth, first aid, GPS beacon, phone, and that's about it.

If there is anything smelly in a sealed tent or a pack, the marmots may chew through to get at it. All food stuffs and toiletries belong in a bear canister.

Hi Ned. I just bought a Katadyn gravity 6L bag/filter, and after 3 days of backcountry use, I was very happy with it. You don't strictly need to hang it if you just want to fill other containers - you can just sling it from your shoulder, which would be even easier with the 3L. I've left it in Mammoth for my son to use and I'm going to try the BeFree filter with a 1L Hydrapak collapsible bottle for my summit attempt in August, as I will be solo (sort of).