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Joined: Oct 2008
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so i'm sitting at home nice and warm waiting out this coming week of bad weather and thought of how bad the mountains can get now. i then remember my last climb of Mt. Rainier with two of my best climbing buddies. the climb started out beautifully with gorgeous weather but then all hell broke loose and we were suddenly in survival mode. my buddy yannick made a video of the climb. he did a great job and i thought i'd share with you guys. it is 10 mins long so grab a donut and some coffee.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QWyMmZZBmM


Last edited by kevin_trieu; 12/07/09 08:32 PM.

When in doubt, go up.
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Great reminders Kevin. It's storming like crazy in the mountains right now and as our friend Dennis Mattison has said there's a series of storms in the forecast for this week.

Since it is a slow day and there is time I thought I'd take issue with your terminology of "good" and "bad", the latter term you used twice in the first sentence.

I don't tend to look at weather as necessarily "good" or "bad". What is bad to one person might be great for someone else. The truth of the matter is California can use the storms and the water that it brings.

It's like when people look at a route such as the U Notch Couloir and ask if conditions are "good" or not. In September the route is hard ice. For some that would be "bad" because they want to kick steps into snow. For others the conditions are "good" because they want to do a multi pitch ice climb. What is bad to one person is good for another.

So rather than call the weather "bad" I'll just describe it as "stormy" and not favorable for climbing at the moment (or driving for that matter). After the storm clears I'll describe the weather using various terms such as "clear", "bluebird", or one of many other adjectives that could be placed here.

But, maybe others wouldn't agree and they'd call all this stormy weather "bad". smile smile smile smile smile smile


Kurt Wedberg
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http://www.sierramountaineering.com
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OH - MY - GOD...Kevin, that was insane! eek
What an accomplishment. Congratulations to all three of you on that climb.
Stacy


Moved to Bishop in 2012 and haven't looked back since...
Joined: Feb 2005
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Very cool video and congrats on that climb. I hope you had some choice expletives for your leader when you saw that first anchor. The other ones weren't great but the first one shown really would have pissed me off. It looks like an American death triangle on 2 closely spaced screws with a redirect-belay to double the force during a fall. Of course, this is big time Monday quarterbacking so sorry if I missed something. Anyway, sweet avalanche footage and strong climbing.

Joined: Mar 2008
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Just what I needed as I'm sitting in my office looking out the window at the sun on the snow covered Sierras. Makes it so much easier to spend the day indoors. LOL.
Well done. I had the chance to meet Yannick and Shirley earlier this year, they were extremely kind to let us use their car and save us 10 miles or so of walking in the dark. Outstanding individuals.

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"Hey, Shirley... you guys are parked at the trailhead, right? Can we borrow the keys?"


Daniel, I dunno about 10 miles, but it was a long way back to the trucks... wink


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Think outside the Zone.
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Maybe not 10 miles for you and Rick, but for me, 10 miles. Easy.

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Wait, you've had bad days in the mountains? I've been cold, tired, sick, in pain, wet, scared, sure, but I was IN THE MOUNTAINS, so I can't call any of those bad days.

Joined: May 2009
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its easy to climb in good weather. you find out what you are made of when conditions aren't so perfect.


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