Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Hit Hard, Kick Harder: Ice on the MR 11-21-09

A big group of us headed up the MR Saturday to hit the ice below Girl Scout (Thor, Frog Pond, Dave Kirk) Lake. Conditions getting there were really less than optimal:

1) Trail is dry essentially to LBSL. The creek crossing below the E-ledges has some tremendous ice coverage, so watch your step. E-ledges are clear .

2) Snow coverage above LBSL is spotty , dense, hard, and slick. Some leap-frogging between rocks and scree is possible, but I would at least recommend trekking poles for touch balance to avoid slipping.

3) The trail and the slabs below Clyde Meadow are covered in thick, white, hard ice. I couldn't tell if the outlet from CM was running, but it was a solid-looking white path as well.

4) Snow conditions just below the falls were mostly hard-pack that allowed for just enough front-pointing with boots to walk up. I would imagine there are some areas higher (the chute above Iceberg) that might have similar conditions.

5) The ice is fat and in on the falls . The middle line is where the bulk of water flow is happening, and produced quite a shower and rope freezing when we were on it. Watch your step at the base: the areas of hard ice are not consistent across the belay line, and Miguel broke through to water at one point. I tested another area with my kneecap, and, unfortunately, lost that battle.

6) Afternoon freezing is really kicking in by 1500-1600. The descent to LBSL through the rocks was pretty unpleasant and slick. Again, poles would have been nice.

A few pics from the day:











We spent a great night at the Lone Pine CG, then hit the rocks in the Alabama Hills on Sunday. The Shark's Fin was our first target, and we covered the routes with ropes across the east side. I took a stab at the 10b (top rope) on the south edge of the arete, but the overhang was a killer. Knuckles bore the brunt of the day there, but we finished the day at Paul's Paradise with some nice 7's and 8's on the face.



Pics from the MR are here.

Pics from the Alabama Hills are here.

Thanks Miguel, Kevin, Gibran, Will, Joan, Christine, Dave, Amy, Mike, Fred, and Justin for a great weekend. Let me know about the next trip so we can work on our log-flipping into the fire skillz!

From the luckiest girl in the world: Climb Hard, Be Safe.

-L

Way to go hot-pants! How's the ice? Plastic?

Hey Kid! You're just about ready for the June Lake Loop. And then...Lee Vining Canyon. Remember to stand up straight and relax...

Tanks, Brent. Can't wait for this weekend!

Ice is yum yum plastic, perfect for the pick, hard to pull out. Got to try Rob's Grivel Monsters (leashless) and Will's BD Vipers (leashed). LOVED the BDs... Xmas time it is a-comin'...

And yes, I know they're orange. That's just bonus.

-L

Thanks, Bob. I had three good falls on that first route in the middle (found out JUST what rope stretch feels like!), but the guys were great in giving me pointers (like what you said) and I NAILED the coffin shut on the second route. Got a little sumthin' cookin' in February for some bigger ice. Hope to have my own tools by then.

-L

Way to go Laura, your killin it this year. Hope to see you down south in the bowl with Arthur and me this winter. If winter ever comes down here....Have a Happy Thanksgiving..

I am so inspired... truly inspired! You keep pushing your limits and it is astounding to see where your motivation, zest and passion have taken you. With each adventure, your climbing skills reach a new level. Thank you, Miss Moose, for continuing to share your stories and photos.

Jeff: waitin' on the winter stuff up here, too, man! Cheez, I so want to go skiing... LMK about the Big Draw...

MC: every once in a while I get reminded of how I have the most amazing group of friends in the world. This past weekend was one of those times. You just have to watch it... you never know where your boots will take you.

Much love,
L

Looks like a fun time. I can only imagine how many puncture wounds I'd have in my calves if I strapped on my crampons right now.. I guess tromping around in slippery leaves out here wouldn't qualify as needing crampons..lol..

Wow! I had to put on my coat just to look at the pictures. Thanks for sharing.

Chris, I've heard there's a tried and true method of sharpening crampons by walking around on Sierra granite... and if I can minimize stab wound injuries, I'm sure it'll be like getting back on a bike for you. If you're ever going to come back out this-a-way that is...

Gary, it actually wasn't that cold up there (all things relative and considered, I guess). We had to work so hard on belays to force the frozen ropes through that we were all plenty warm! Learned my lesson, tho, to bring a shell next time for the drips. Arms got a little wet on the first route...

Hey L, congrats to you and your homies on chipping and kicking on some nice phat ice up there. Plus bonus points to you for style’n in those vanilla ice climbing pants.
Hmmm…..vanilla…..ice….vanilla ice…..vanilla ice ice baby….. sounds you got a new theme song
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vp-is6S_b_g
Cheers,
RickG

Grahamcracker, thas just wrong on SO many different levels... I should have gotten style points for the orange hot chocolate I had brought along...

btw: what you doin' for T-day?

I can haz new nickname ?

I just calls them as I sees them
Hope to see you out at JT this gobble gobble weekend

"LOLMoose"

"icanhasmoosburger"

CaT

Hacking a perfect ice wall into pieces is therapeutic. Kind of like smashing fine china.

So Miguel and I went to Parker Canyon for more ice and I got my second shower of the month. It was cold!

Nice, indeed, Kev-bo! Wish I could have joined you guys for more fun on the cold stuff, but I suppose someone has to work for a living...

Let's catch up soon. There's a certain ridge above Piute Pass that has been calling my name.

-L