Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board LIGHTWEIGHT CRAMPONS

My wife and I are planning a Whitney hike in early June when there will most likely be snow on parts of the trail. I have read many posts about people using crampons that they take on and off during their hike. I need some guidance on what type of crampons to look for. I don't know if the type of boot matters ( I have Asolo 520). We will be attending a course this winter to learn the skills necessary to use crampons and an ice axe. The course supplies the equipment and the boots (double plastic?) I am guessing we will need some type of lightweight crampon to do the trick. Would it be best for us to buy them in advance or can they be rented locally? If we should buy them what brands should we look at and where should we buy. Thanks for your help. Rob

Hi Rob:
It all depend on the amount of snow on the trail. Keep checking this board in May to June to get a feel for the snow condition on the trail.

a) For very light snow I have used Kahtoola Spikes that fits over regular hiking boot tightly and it is light weight (www.kahtoola.com).

b) For more snow you should use a regular crampon.
Option 1: Strap in type like Black Diamond Contact over a hiking boot with firm foot bed that can accept it the crampon. Strap on is more involved to strap in and take it off. The Asolo Powermatic 200 is much firmer foot bed and better than the Asolo 520 and slightly more expensive.

Option 2: Step-in type that let you put it on or remove it on the fly such as Black Diamond Sabretooth which requirs a special boot with bails in front and back such as La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX (single boot), or even more warmth like La Sportiva Batura (double boot) which is not really needed for Whitney.

Remember to get the ABS plate with the crampon to prevent snow building up under the crampon, and do not forget the ice axe even in light snow. The ice axe has plenty of other usages.

Here in the West Coast we have REI stores which is good place to gear up, and they have very nice return policies.

Good Luck.

Your 520s don't have bails/welts for newmatic or automatic crampons so you'll want to look at the new-classic type of attachment with plastic baskets on the toe and heel. If you want to save half the weight (1 lbs vs. 2+) then look at aluminum alloy crampons instead of steel. Just be aware that aluminum models will get eaten quickly if you walk over a lot of rock in them... steel can take this abuse so you might make fewer transitions with steel crampons.

Look for what's called "10-point" crampons that have less aggressive front points for this application (more walking than climbing). Also, they shouldn't be uber-sharp either (like ice climbing models are) they just need to be generally pointy to penetrate neve (firm alpine snow). Sometimes I dull newer mountaineering crampons on purpose by grinding them on the nearest rock. This way I'm less likely to perforate myself if I slip or step on my other foot.

My favorites are the Grivel air tech light:
http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/pr...d_id=GoogleBase

Some other good choices to look at:
Grivel G10 (steel)
Black Diamond Neve (alu)
Black Diamond Contact (stainless steel)
Camp XLC 490 (alu)
Camp Magix 10 (steel)
Petzl Irvis (steel) imho these are a little agro in point length and sharpness for general mountaineering.

A good online store:
http://www.backcountry.com/store/group/258/Crampons.html

I just wish they carried the Grivel models.
To avoid severe orthopedic malfunction and/or ventilating yourself or your partners while wearing crampons: don't fall, don't glisade, and know when to BTFO (back the ____ off).

I have the camp 490's and they're awesome. The lightest on the market, without any gimmicks, and they come with built in anti balling plates. These lessen the snow from balling up on your feet.

You'll learn all about travel and gear on your training, you may want to hold off until you you learn more at your class. Eventually you'll own multiple pairs of crampons in all different types and materials, but there's no need to rush that process.

Brent, interestingly enough, the new Eddie Bauer tech line (First Ascent) does offer the Grivel G12s online, perhaps because of the deal thru RMI. Those were my first 'pons and I always go to them as my standards (although I'm planning on kicking in my new sabretooths tomorrow... hehehe!)

-L

Yeah I started with some G12s (newmatic) as well for the Sierras back in like 03, used them on Rainier in 06, tons of stuff since then, and with a little touch of the file they work like new. Just like you (my hero) they are the go-to rig when I want to leave them on and be able to climb pretty much anything. The points are sharp and long but so far I haven't drawn (much) blood with them.

I just got some BD cyborgs on S&C a few weeks ago... wanna go check out the waterfall on the MR soon?

Brent: good to talk to you yesterday. Been too long. Be careful of your cyborgs: they may end up in my pack and will blend since they're orange...

Rob: I agree with snaps in that you'll learn a tremendous amount about what crampons you'll want/need after you take your class. Something else to consider is the type of terrain for which you'll mostly be using them. Since I'm not, well, the lightest bird, I also chose the Grivel's because they are steel, instead of aluminum, which I would probably eat for lunch on the mix of snow and granite around here. (graham mentioned the "sierra sharpening technique" of walking on the rock with crampons!).

PS: if you do a search of "crampons" you may come up with other threads from the past that have more descriptions of the different types of 'pons. Be sure to use the quotes around the search word for the best results.

Good luck!

-L
Good luck!