Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board MR climbing conditions

I'm going to make a solo attempt on the MR this weekend (7/18). Does anyone have recent reports on conditions, snow, etc..?

This is also my first attempt on this route so any other advise is welcome.

I am also planning on ascending and descending the MR next Monday (7/20) and would greatly appreciate any additional reports or photographs of the route above Iceberg Lake from last weekend.

Here is what was reported on the SWS mountain guide twitter site for last weekend.

Mt. Whitney Mtneer's Route update: Snow to the west of the notch at 14,000 ft. We are still using ice ax and crampons on the route! Solid snow above 13,500 ft, 2" of verglas on the rock above the notch at 14,000 ft.

Any additional information is greatly appreciated.

Not sure which way west would be , but from last weeks photos the conditions look better than normal, always some lingering snow in the bottom of the chute from iceberg to the notch that can be passed by using the left hand route up and around the corner it was eaiser with the snow pile, now this will require the one little move onto the benches. See the post from sierragator last weekend study the rock and avoid the snow /ice as most climbers do. Thanks Doug

Will do! Thanks for your help Doug. Kent

A group of us went up on the MR this past week without crampons and ice axes (summit July 8th). Above Iceberg Lake the bottom portion of the couloir has an obvious snow pack, however that is avoidable if you stay left. You will have to do some snow travel mid way thought the couloir for maybe 300-400 feet. Afterwards is all dry to the notch. Above the notch (last 400’) there was ice and snow. Stay left and you can avoid the ice and snow. The last few (3-4) steps are in some snow, but the ice is avoidable.

Above the notch (ascent and descend) we roped up. Also, there is webbing setup for anyone game for some rappelling, we took advantage of the situation and had blast. Not recommended for the faint of hart…

On the descend I followed the snow all the way down to Iceberg Lake. There is a significant boot pack to follow without to much post holing. It made for a fast descend, I would recommend bringing gaiters.

Timing is critical. If you show up to early the snow will be rock hard, so plan accordantly.

Hope this helps.

Peter

Thanks very much for this helpful report Peter. Kent

Peter,

Thank you for the information, much appreciated.

donnie