A group of us went up on the MR this past week without crampons and ice axes (summit July 8th). Above Iceberg Lake the bottom portion of the couloir has an obvious snow pack, however that is avoidable if you stay left. You will have to do some snow travel mid way thought the couloir for maybe 300-400 feet. Afterwards is all dry to the notch. Above the notch (last 400’) there was ice and snow. Stay left and you can avoid the ice and snow. The last few (3-4) steps are in some snow, but the ice is avoidable.
Above the notch (ascent and descend) we roped up. Also, there is webbing setup for anyone game for some rappelling, we took advantage of the situation and had blast. Not recommended for the faint of hart…
On the descend I followed the snow all the way down to Iceberg Lake. There is a significant boot pack to follow without to much post holing. It made for a fast descend, I would recommend bringing gaiters.
Timing is critical. If you show up to early the snow will be rock hard, so plan accordantly.
Hope this helps.
Peter
