as of a couple weeks ago, it was all snow from outpost camp to trail crest and on/off to the summit(very exposed and narrow footing on ice for the first .75mi from trail crest) I wished i had snow shoes when the snow got soft. If your friend is worried about the weight of a snow shovel carrying now shoes for half the trip might be too much. I took a shovel as it is still winter mountaineering, I also take min 100' rope, webbing, snow pickts, rescue pullys, ect with more concern for mountain safety than how muh stuff weighs. I figure the ol By Scout motto of Be Prepared has stuck with me for 20+ yrs. I train hard off season to make mounaineering more enjoyable and safe. If I was going again soon I would take both, however if weight is a factor a very early start will help, like 3am from trail camp to summit.