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The East Ridge is one of the finest climbs of its kind for miles around. The route is airy, the rock is excellent, and the route-finding challenging. Several hundred feet of broken slab climbing, where there are often several choices. Pick the best of them, and it’s 3rd class, although some of it is borderline. But it is easy to miss the best, and we did a few times yesterday. Worst was a 12’ section of at least mid-5th class, with infinite exposure. The kind where you say, “I really shouldn’t do this,” then “Well, now what? —Don’t want to go up any more and can’t go back down,” and a couple of minutes later, “I really shouldn’t have done that.” But in general, upon reaching an apparent impasse, it is always easy to back off and try something else. After summitting, we descended the chute from “Candlelight-Irvine Pass” to Bighorn Park. This chute is awfully loose, and I wouldn’t recommend it unless you are more than moderately experienced. I’ve gone up and down it several times before, always unroped, but we had a length of emergency 5 mm cord this time. We were happy to use it. Pictures Ascending and descending via Meysan Canyon is far safer.
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Bob, neither your climbs nor your pictures ever bore me. Keep on going because you keep me going with envy.
paul
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Hardcore. I am just now starting my Sierra scrambling "career" at 43. You guys are awesome. The pictures "Touchy Going..." and "Ugly Talus" on the descent of the chute is exactly what the south slope of Mt Keith looks like and I attempted last weekend. I am glad I turned around even with only 30 yards or so left to the ridge. Everything moved. It's nice to have your photos and commentary to learn from. Thanks.
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I have always loved this route to Candlelight peak...since my first time up the route...with your pictures in hand.
I have never tried that descent route...being that the top section down to the scree field is difficult...glad to see it can be done with a rope....for the adventurous type.
Nice pictures.
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And the views from the summit aren't too shabby. This is four images stitched together--the reason I took the tripod along. It's a low resolution version; I'm reserving the hi res for the Lone Pine Visitor Center. 
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<groan> Naturally, you did a route I've been wanting to do, one day AFTER I left Lone Pine...
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Bob, your summit view photo, above, shows something interesting.
Above Mirror Lake, there is a valley that goes off to the left, and up. It appears to give access to the area under Whitney that links up with the North Fork route, and also goes up to the north of Wotan's Throne. Have you ever explored that area? I've noticed it on maps, and wondered, but I've never heard anyone mention the area.
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Ken, I think that's where Richard was off exploring the day after our grunt from OV. Looks tremendously fun! Bob: Great adventure and pics! The summit photo is a gorgeous perspective of the whole Whitney amphitheater/approaches! Congrats on another wonderful climb. -L 
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Seldom do people venture up and down that canyon, except to go over the pinnacle pass. Richard's pictures, on the way down from Wotans Throne, have waterfalls and the like we have never seen before.
From his description, I think we have been missing out on some good stuff in that canyon.
Last edited by GoingBackSoon; 08/04/08 11:05 PM.
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Fantastic pictures with unique views. I love that summit shot. You two guys are certified nuts IMO going some of the places you go. 5mm rope or not. Thanks for showing me places i'll never go.
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Richard, if you are ever looking for new challenges, you could always document the cross country route from Whitney Creek down to the Kern. It's begging to be challenged and conquered.
paul
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Bob's pictures and report of the east ridge of Candlelight got me interested in doing that route. I thought that if climbing the top third of the east ridge as described by Bob was fun, then doing the whole ridge would be three times the fun. Wrong. The lower section of the ridge is a misery on badly decomposed granite. I would only recommend this route to those filled with self loathing. Just do the route described by Bob. That part was very worthwhile.
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The East Ridge is one of the finest climbs of its kind for miles around. The route is airy, the rock is excellent, and the route-finding challenging. Several hundred feet of broken slab climbing, where there are often several choices. Pick the best of them, and it’s 3rd class, although some of it is borderline. But it is easy to miss the best... I climbed this on Saturday. I'd have to agree with everything you say, and should have reviewed this post before leaving home... Over two hours of pure adrenalin rush... I headed home via Meysan Canyon... I'd had enough excitement for one day. Photos.
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