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#50001 07/08/08 07:09 PM
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Has anyone done the North Ridge (5.5) successfully? I've been up to the base of the ridge twice and both times ended up on the right side of the first tower but I can see that the route goes on the left below the "huge sharp flake." Last weekend my group and I bivouacked at what we think is the "notch" near 11,000ft where the route officially starts with the 4th class down climb. We are going to try the route again later this summer but we'd appreciate any beta on route-finding from the final talus field before the ridge. Thanks!

DWade #50002 07/08/08 07:17 PM
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What is "LPP"? North Ridge of what?

#50003 07/08/08 07:26 PM
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I think it's that song from the 80's: "You down w/ LPP, Yeah you know me..." eek

LPP=Lone Pine Peak


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MooseTracks #50016 07/08/08 08:23 PM
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I believe the route does go left. Route finding can be a little difficult on the North ridge. I think I know the spot you're talking about because I remember a tricky downclimb on the left side near the first tower. I think this is sometimes rappelled. I also remember a few other tricky moves but the real crux is the lieback pitch. It might be 5.5 oldschool but I think it's frequently considered 5.6 or 5.7 these days.

Here's a photo of the downclimb I was thinking of:

http://www.rickkent.net/ViewerPlus/viewphoto.aspx?ID=70112

You might also check out the prior photos to that one to see if my photos to that point look like anything you remember. Sounds like you figured out how to get to that point.

Also, Bob Burd has a description for the route which may or may not be helpful:

Following is the route description I penned on the summit of Lone Pine Peak. If you use it, I'd appreciate any feedback on its helpfulness. My guess is most will find it as useless as I found Secor's description. :-)

Secor and others describe the route with two towers, a description I found misleading both times I was on the route. It seems more accurate to me to describe it as having four notches, which I will attempt to incorporate here. Climb 2nd to 3rd class up to the tower before the 1st notch. Downclimb into the notch (class 3-4), then climb up (5.4) just right of the ridge. Climb up and back onto the ridge where you can see the large leaning slab on the left side. Climb down a nice ramp about 30ft to where you can climb up and around the leaning slab on the left side. Climb down 15ft, traverse the east side for about 40ft, then climb a series of 3 grooves/chimneys back up to the ridge (5.2 on the last one). Follow the ridgeline, airy and knife-edged at times, to the point above the second notch. Climb down to the notch.

This is a good point to put on climbing shoes if you haven't already. The east side of the 2nd notch is a steep, difficult chute. The west side has a sandy ledge that is easy to follow down for several hundred feet, but far off the route. Your best bet is up the ridge, just to the right of the centerline. This section is the crux - off-widths, chimneys, and a 5.6 lieback await you. There are escape options off to the right a few hundred feet above the 2nd notch, that look to be class 3 routes to the top on the NW Face. Better climbing is found by returning to the ridgeline where possible. You should never have to climb down more than 10-20ft to get around obstacles. Check your options before committing to a line of attack. There is a fantastically airy class 3 ledge that goes around the left side of the ridge and brings you around obstacles and back to the ridgeline. Here the ridge gets airy and knife-edged, but only class 3. Follow it to the 3rd notch.

It now appears you are at the base of the summit blocks (last 400ft), but there is one more notch above. Climb down into the 3rd notch directly from the ridgeline, then follow interesting folds of rock up on the left side of centerline. You may have to climb down about 20ft to avoid obstacles, but no need to climb down into the sandy chutes. The hardest climbing is over, but there is much great climbing ahead if you stay close to the ridge. From the 4th notch, traverse a narrow, sandy ledge about 120ft on the west side, then climb back up towards the ridge where possible. Better climbing is found close to the ridge, bail to the right for class 3 routes to the summit. You should be able to top out right at the summit with class 4-5 climbing along the very ridge.


Last edited by Rick Kent; 07/09/08 12:15 AM.

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