Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board North Palisade via U-Notch

We're thinking about doing North Palisade via the U-Notch over the 4th of July weekend. Any beta on the route and/or current conditions would be appreciated. Some quick questions:
What's the glacier like on the approach, should we expect any crevasses and/or an open 'schrund?
Will snow conditions allow us to travel over the glacier without snowshoes?
What is the best place to camp on the approach, on the glacier, or before we get on it? If we camp off the glacier, how long will the approach be?
Will is be mostly snow, or a snow/ice mix?
2 technical tools or 1 mtn axe?
Thanks, your help is much appreciated!

I remember seeing some small crevasses on the glacier but roping up should not be necessary. I never did. The 'schrund might be open as summer is approaching. Snowshoes should not be necessary. Gayley camp is at the base of Mt. Gayley and just before the glacier. Good place to camp.

The U-notch climb itself is based on conditions. I remember it being mostly snow. Stay on the right side of the Notch to use the slings and other pro available. One mtn axe should be sufficient.

Here are some pictures from May '06 climb.
http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/550468922GtvPNJ?start=0

Summitpost.org has some information on getting to Gayley camp. Further research can be made for North Palisade.
http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/154445/mount-gayley.html

Good luck.

Kevin, thanks so much for the info. Do you know how long it takes to get from Gayley camp to the base of the climb?

U-Notch and V-Notch are full on ice. The berg to get to the U-Notch can be crossed by a thinning snow bridge. 2 ice tools, ropes (recommend two for the rappels), screws, slings, etc - the usual, unless you will solo it. No snowshoes required.

It takes 1 to 2 hours to get to the base of the climb from Gayley. Depends on fitness level and conditions. It is a full day of climbing.

Hope this helps.

Fred

Hmm... The Palisade Glacier is not "that" big and I think it takes roughly 40 minutes to get from Gayley camp to the 'schrund, base of the U-Notch.

Do you know how many miles it is from the trailhead to Gayley camp?

I would say just about 7.5 miles.

RNorthe,

Of course, you can also climb to the U Notch from the southwest.. This typically involves about a 8.5 mile approach (over Bishop Pass and Thunderbolt Pass) to the base of the gully leading up to the U Notch. Once you start working your way up the chute there are several ways to reach the top of North Palisades. (I've done the Le Conte route and scouted out the Moore Variation from that side of the crest.)

With a light pack, a strong climber can ascend North Palisades via the Le Conte route as a dayhike. Otherwise, camp at a source of water as far above the Barrett Lakes as possible.

Enjoy your climb, Jim

Here is a pic of the notch taken yesterday (27 June 2008). Have fun!

Just got back from the Palisades. The bergschrund is still bridged on the right but is melting fast and may be gone soon. The first two rope lengths up past the coulior are iced. There is exposed scree most of the way on the right side. The snow level in the coulior this year is very low, we saw many old rap stations way up out of reach.