Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board How difficult/exposed IS the scramble up Mt. Muir?

Hi Everyone,

I really love this message board - you guys were a great help last year for my first summit via the Main Trail. I'm planning another dayhike (Main Trail again) Sept. 9 and I've been going back and forth regarding whether to try to scramble up Mt. Muir on the way down. I'm confused because I've read varying reports - some people describe it as a fairly easy scramble with a Class 3 summit block (which, if I understand right, Class 3 means you could fall and maybe break a bone or two, but probably not die - is that right?). Other people describe a great deal of exposure... Does anyone have any experience/comments? I trust myself enough to scramble and do easy Class 3, but not enough to climb along ledges with possible death falls (no rope/climbing experience).

Thanks!

I think the class 3 is a little more difficult on Muir than the Mountaineers Route. There really isn't much chance of your falling, since there is actually a slope to the rocks (maybe 45 degrees?). So you are more laying on the rocks, using the hand and foot holds to make your progress upward. And every ten, maybe 15 feet upward, there is a nice secure bench or something where you can rest and plan your next section.

You should really try it -- if you get too jittery, just go back down. And on the way up, keep looking back down where you came up, so you will remember the best way to go down.

I would say the class 3 on Mt. Muir is more dangerous & exposed than the Whitney Mountaineer's Route. Yet it also much funner in my opinion! If you are uncomfortable with that kind of exposure, then maybe you should rope up. Safety always comes first.

I've done Muir twice. Never did I feel a wrong step would cost me my life. There are many places to rest and evaluate the next section. From my recollection, the worst could be you slip a few feet and get cut up pretty good on a fall - as long as you stay on the route and don't do anything stupid. It is the exposure, if anything, that will get to your nerves (as it did to mine). Especially when climbing up onto the final summit boulder - I just crawled on my stomach until I was on top. My first attempt I wouldn't sit up on the summit - it was just more than my nerves would take. The second attempt I finally did sit up and discovered the summit register box.

Be cautious. If you attempt and it is more than you can handle - go back down and try again on a different occasion. If possible, go with someone who has done it before.

I remember thinking the route wasn't particularly obvious when I was climbing up Muir.

I was approaching from the north, and I ended up skirting along the crest for a bit, which was definitely exposed.

The summit was very exciting--a tad smaller than Whitney's, to be sure.

Coming down, I found the normal class III section, which didn't seem so bad. As far as the climbing goes, it probably is a click or so above the MR's difficulty.