Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Carillon Valley route finding

Rick & Tina's May climb of Russell has to be the best pictorial document of the area I've seen. But we saw very little of the Carillon Valley section which Doug Sr has noted is a real route-finding bear. Can anyone offer any navigational tips to a someone looking to do Cleaver Col, or is the route pretty apparent these days?

Upper Carillon valley is simple to access by climbing the slope north of Lower Boyscout Lake. Lower Carillon valley is a nasty, brush-filled headache that is best avoided. It is easy to find Cleaver Col at the head of Carillon valley to the south of the Cleaver. Just ascend the obvious steep, loose scree chute until forced out towards climber's left. Then ascend easy slopes to the pass.

this is what suicide col looked like on the day of Rick and Tina's trip - Snow Nymph and I were doing the Gamblers Special that day

In Tomcat's picture the scree chute you ascend is the large snow patch on the right. Near the top of the snow patch you would traverse left onto the boulder covered slope and climb to the pass.

Thanks, Marmoting. Sounds like you wouldn't do it again, not even for the thrill of cresting Cleaver Col. Brush like the brush between Lower Boy Scout and Upper Boy Scout?

beautiful shot, tomcat! and fine tip about which slot to go for. thank you. curious to know your take on the brush in lower carillon valley and why they call it gambler's special.

we did not take the lower Carillon Creek up - went up to LBSL - from there you ascend a fairly easy to follow use trail that leads up the upper part of the canyon. Gamblers Special is named for the plane load of Reno gamlers that crashed enroute home against the side of the mountain.
p.s. - excellent view of the Cleaver from Gamblers - allow me to post one more pict

Cleaver

Colombo,

Upper Carillon valley is very nice, and I go there quite often. In fact I went over Cleaver Col this past Saturday. My negative comment applies only to lower Carillon valley. I probably won't ever go there again. Climbing lower Carillon valley is similar to climbing the lower part of North Fork Lone Pine Creek without the trail or the E-ledges. But it isn't necessary to pass through lower Carillon valley to reach the upper valley, so it isn't necessary to suffer the brush to access Cleaver Col.

I believe BobR has some great pics of the Carillon drainages on his photo page. Try here.

-L

Marmoting, thanks for the clarification! Yes, that lower Carillon Valley turn is a huge mistake we all made back in the 90s before the signs were installed! It is the upper part of Carillon Valley I'm after, accessing from LBSL. So, once you gain the creek above LBSL, the route up the valley to the WNW is fairly straightforward?

Really looking forward to bypassing the sandy south slope of Russell-Carillon this year, and for the visual blast a the top of Cleaver Col!

Thanks again.

Thank you for the redirect, Tomcat. I should have specified upper Carillon Valley! I never heard the gamblers story — was hoping for something a little more light-hearted!

And MooseTracks, thanks for the link to BobR's pics.

Hi there. IDK if you looked at the link to my pictures...maybe some can help you. Here is my TR about the day hike Rick & I did. Hope some of it will help (there's a link in it to all the pictures).

MT Carillon - MT Russell Day Hike

I have read your TR, Tina, and viewed all your photos. What a incredible day you guys had! We're hoping to take the shortcut to the Russell ER, as well, but first we wanted to be sure the brush at the bottom of Upper Carillon Valley wouldn't be a time-waster or a deal breaker. From the sound of things, it seems to be pretty straightforward, nothwithstanding Doug Sr's withering description ("Four trips required to find the route").

if you go up there thinking you are taking a shortcut to avoid the slog up from Clyde Meadow - you are doomed to fate - it is a more agressive alternative but by no means easier.

No easy matter, I understand. But having done the slope above UBSL a few times, Upper Carillon Valley has a certain appeal. And everyone seems to find it so rewarding. What was the crux of the route for you?

Why don't u send a PM to Rick Kent? He should be able to give you all the instruction/direction you need. I thought it was pretty straight forward after all (but then again, I was following).

Thanks, Tina! I've sent Rich a PM/query. We'll see if he gets it.

I said Rich. I meant Rick, of course.