didn't want to hijack any other thread so I figured start on new post
Saturday Sept 23 drove up to Portal to crash for early morning wake up call. Met SnowNymph and friend Devon up there and we agreed to wake up at 3am to prep/start.
Ready to hike at 4:20 - met Rick Graham and Tony C. - fellow posters. They were doing the Butress route with 2 other friends. One turned out to be David Harris whom I have met before and his friend ET. together we all started up the old trail.
Somewhere around the ledges Julian came whizzing by. He advised he was doing Russell and whitney and I had remembered seeing his post about the attempt. Sorrry to hear you had to abort the plan - but all days on the mountain are good.
We stopped at the waterfalls above the ledges for a rest/snack. Noticed the waterfall had lots of ice - also now noting color on eastern horizon.
Next break was at Clyde Meadow - noted lots of ice on slabs approaching. Everyone should now be cautious in this area. Especially if dark out or you are unfamiliar with the layout already. Break time meant food, water, and more pictures.
Our final tank up before summit was at waterfall below EF Lake - like this better than drinking out of the lake - esp when people camping at Lake. Normally on the up route we head up and over at this waterfall. Today this waterfall is mostly frozen and did not look safe to cross - we opted to go up the right hand side - still areas where ice can cause a slip. If you are uncomfortable with ice - probable better to stay low and bypass this.
After a brief stop at EF Lake it was time to start the haul up to the notch. Lots of people on climbing routes today - heard lots of "on belay" "off belay" and "climbing". Lots less snow this year compared to last year at this time. Last year on Oct 1 we were doing lots of post holing in the chute.
Above the notch - took my usual route up the left hand side. This worked out really well as not to interfere with guided groups roping up and down. SnowN. had a little harder time with some of the steps - did not realize more oriented for people with longer legs. We all made it and true to the posts - no kamode to mark the topout of the route. Can't think of how many people over the years we surprised by "popping up" there while they thought they were enjoying a moment of privacy.
On summit was a fun time by all. Took pictures of register sign in including from the 20th were a poster had asked due to camera error. Our frineds from the morning were just finshing their climbing routes and we met a couple guys we had seen at the bottom who were successfully summited via East Face route. Was pleased to see the door remounted to the hut. They had the door open on the maintenence side and I ducked in to take some pictures. The guy must have thought I was crazy when I asked where the stocked wine shelf was. Informed him must have been an evil rumor someone started.
The trip down the main trail was long and uneventful - had to use headlights coming down. The ice near the cable requires that watch your step but certainly is passable. After using headlights - finally made it back to vehicle at 9:15 - a 16 hour hike. We were all beat but happy to have enjoyed a beautiful day on the mountain.
http://members3.clubphoto.com/tom1038077/4786350/guest.phtml
