Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Made it to the Summit - Mountaineers Route

What a great hike and a fun route. We did the hike Sunday July 29th. This was my first time to do Whitney and I was fortunate enough to have a friends brother guide me up the route. This was also my first exposure to altitude above 11K. These were the mistakes I made.. I ate too much before we took off and I didn't expose myself to altitude prior to the hike to see how my body would react. The result of that was painful. I am in decent condition (I just did 1/2 dome in Yosemite in a little over 8 hours with no problems what-so-ever, even cycled afterwards), but once the nausea hit me on Whitney very low at about 9,000 (because of the food I believe) the altitude took over and it never left. At times I was spinning. The nausea also made it very difficult to keep hydrated which I feel contributed to the over all sickness I felt. At 13400 up above Iceberg Lake I was sure I couldn't make it, but after a 30+ minute rest I gathered myself and worked my way up to the saddle (slowly) with the intent to stop if my body said no, but with the absolute determination to make it if I could. From there Mark and I climbed up the left side of the last chute and made the summit. That little climb left of the snow is pretty fun. What an accomplishment I felt. Aside from the sickness, I felt great. We took a rest and headed down. I started feeling much better in a very short time and we made it down in less than 3.5 hours. Next time there will be very little food intake just prior to the hike for sure and more water intake during the entire day before and leading up to the hike. I did a lot of reading on this website (and others) about AMS prior to this trip and I think it helped me tremendously to be able to recognize what I was experiencing and both deferientiate between the symptoms I had and be able to recognize when I should stop. I really believe it was more food related, but compounded by a degree of AMS. In the end I made it up and down safely and had an incredible experience.

Thank you Mark and to everyone that provides information on this website. What a great group of people. See on you top..

Good day
congratulation on you successful climb

Could you give me more info as the condition on the last chute above iceberg lake
Is there snow/ ice ?
and after the last chute the wall just before exiting in front of the toilet at the top

did you use any ice gear (crampons..)

What was your timing what time did you left from the portal
thank you
EL.

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It was indeed a great day, I am truly sorry you felt so sick from the beginning of our hike on sunday. I am still amazed you hung in there and made the summit. Most of us would have turned around. Great job!! We will have to plan another trip soon with the others from F. farms. EL, We brought axes, but left them in our packs. Above the notch it is possible to completly avoid any snow and ice by staying right or left of the center snow patch. I usually go up the left side, it is much more interesting. I trust this helps...good luck.

If you stay left of the main shoot heading toward a small round section of snow left of the main shoot and then go slightly right of the round section of snow you can then continue up and pop back onto the main shoot above all the snow/ ice. This required very little climbing/ bouldering. Once you make the notch there are two snow fields on the back side that are about 15 yrds across each. When I was there on July 28th I crossed them with no crampons or ice axes very easily. There are foot steps already kicked in and if you are there after noon the snow is soft and you can kick into it with trail running shoes easily. Once you cross the second snow patch you will need to head straight up the rock but again it requires a little boldering but it is VERY EASY. I lead two novice climbers and they made it right up no problems.

Thank you for all the informations
as I'm planning to summit on August 14
I was just affraid of the snow ice condition
Since I will not be carring any snow/ice gears
I pray for the snow to melt or stay the same

last year I was ebale to summit ( september 2005)
No ice or snow trouble.

Question? I hike with trekking poles. Are poles a good idea for the MR or do they get in the way?

I have used them on the MR. They only got in the way above the notch, where I needed my hands available. You might find them a problem above Iceberg Lake, but you could always stow them in your daypack. I found them helpful descending that part.

thanx for all the GREAT updates...
we are going up 12 AUG. We are bringing snow gear...but looks we might be able to leave it in our packs )

Idysrvyr-
How was the MR on 8/12? Snow gear required at the top?

just got back from another great trip up MR - weather was perfect and the conditions are the best you could ask for - no snow to deal with at all - if you know your routes

the route was great. when we got to the notch, we went left and up. just below the snow, we crossed over to the right side of the snow and climbed up. it was a great climb, great weather and great teamwork. we had one with us that only climbed another sierra peak once and he had an awesome climb...
no snow gear required...

ldsrvyr is correct. No gear is required now. Once you get over the notch (which is wet but easily bypassed) make your way left pass a flake. Then traverse right on the only exposed rocks in the chute. Go up some class 2-3 blocks. Then you are at the summit!!

I spoke to Jim (at the Whitney Portal campground) who mentioned Doug and him broke up some of the ice on the notch and chute. My thanks to them.

As for the main chute up the MR (from Iceburg), enter from up from the left side and onto the scree. Then stay right of the snow on the class 2-3 blocks until the snow clears.

We wanted to do east buttress, but couldn't get an overnight permit. So, we did MR in a day (up MR, down main route) on Sunday (8/13). It was our 1st time. Beautiful weather, no winds and perfect temperatures! It was great!

huangwSteve,
Can you please give a few details as to the time various sections took you on the up MR down main loop?

close to weekend so I thought I might chime in an answer in case looking for weekend beta.

I usually divide hike into sections.

first real break is Clyde Meadow - this offers opportunity to tank up with clean water and do a good snack break.

just below East Face Lake at the waterfull I do my prenotch tank up - I like this instead of the lake for my water. the lake I would feel more comfortable if filtering but since i dont filter - the waterfall is considered clean water. at this point i fill as much as I need to last for 5 hours of so - then crest to the lake.

East Face Lake / Iceberg Lake - usally good spot to have lunch and build reserves for grind ahead - take the time to rest and eat. I usally try to be headed up from here at about the 5 hour mark - the faster people are 4 hours to here if not quicker - but I consider anything under 6 on an ok schedule.

allow 2-3 hours to deal with chute/notch/chute and to summit. 9 hours up should allow time to visit at summit.

trip down average 4-6 hours and depending on available strength and light may allow a sneak in of Muir on the way down

Hi Cousindave, even though your question is obviously not directed towards me, I am throwing in my two cents anyways, since I have been up the MR and down the Main Trail just this past Sunday (Aug 20). This was my schedule:

3:40 Leaving Whitney Portal
4:00 North Fork Junction
5:00 Lower Boy Scout Lake
5:55 Upper Boy Scout Lake
6:47 Arriving at Iceberg Lake
Break (eating and filtering water)
7:24 Leaving Iceberg Lake
9:01 Arriving at Notch
Short break
9:10 Leaving Notch
9:35 Arriving at Summit

10:18 Starting descent via MT
1:56 Arriving at Whitney Portal

The weather was beautiful and the conditions ideal, since the temperatures were relatively low. On the way down I stop for only about 10 minutes to change some clothes near Outpost Camp as the weather got hotter.

There is still some snow in the top part of the Chute just below the summit plateau, but it does not cause any difficulty. I avoided the snow by going around it on the right side. Below the snow there was some ice to watch out for. Also this could be easily avoided.

I hope that helps, good luck, Kurt

Thanks for the replys. 4 of us are heading up the weekend of 9/16 so still have some tome to plan. Debating whether to do the loop, or camp at Iceberg and ascend/decend from that base. Either way cannot wait to get on the mountain.

Tomcat and Kurt's times are right on the money. We took 5 hours of hike time with 1 hour of break time to get to Iceberg Lake.

A little more than 1 1/2 hour to Lower Boy Scout

Maybe, 2 hour to Upper Boy Scout Lake from Lower.

1 1/2 hours to Iceberg from UBSL. We got a little lost with the route finding on this part, which added to the extra time.

2-3 hours for the chute/notch/chute. We actually took 4-5 hours because my partner was having trouble adjusting to the altitude. But if you don't experience much altitude issues, it's easily under 3 hours to the top from Iceberg.

Have fun on your journey!

Did the MR Aug 8 for the 1st time but not quite as good time as most of you. Started around 4am, summit around 5pm. Left summit around 5:30 via main trail, arrive portal around 3am. Under a day? That last streatch above Iceburg was pretty brutal. Took crampons and ice ax but didn't need them but took our time in routefinding and that last leg from Iceburg took us a good 4 hours.

Overall I thought it was fun but at the end I end I didn't like being on the trail that long.
For me it was the "Bonk". I think I did everything I could to avoid the bonk like steak & eggs topped off with pancakes for B'fast along PPJ's for lunch with about dozen Gu's and power bars in between. I suffer from that high metabolism thing and I hate it. I've read all kinds of articles in how to avoid the bonk but none of it seems to work. So for me I just put up with it and try to enjoy the mountains.

For you all that can do the MR in such sort time with so little food----I envy you...

Congrats just same navman. To make it after enduring the bonk (first time I'd heard the term was this years Tour de France when Landis had such a terrible stage) is an accomplishment in its own rite.

I encountered the bonk in a training hike for Whitney. After only 8.5 hrs you could stick a fork in me. Lost all my enthusiasm. I don't need to go to 14,500' for this kind of "pleasure".

I made it with my wife last sunday August 20.
I think I met a famous man Kurt.
I left at trailhead 4:30AM and summit 12:40,
descent main trail start 1:30 PM, arriving 6:20 at whitney portalhead. spend time for route finding. Real not easy for me.
Good information and pictures from message board
are a lot of help for me. Especially, I got some nice pictures from kurt's . Thank you.
Have fun and be safe.