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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 128
bj
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 128
Conditions are great right now. The main trail is much more beautiful with snow and gives you a true alpine experience. But it does take a little more effort. If you’d like to see my pictures try this link: http://www.kodakgallery.com/BrowsePhotos.jsp?&collid=854008744205&page=1&sort_order=0

Whitney Portal to Outpost Camp

We left the Portal at 6 p.m. on Friday evening, June 10 and arrived at Outpost Camp two hours later carrying 50 and 70 pounds packs. There was no snow on the trail between the Portal and about 9000’. From 9000 feet to Lone Pine Lake you will find patchy snow, but it is no big deal. I walked this section in my Tevas. Just past Lone Pine Lake you will need to make a choice; to your left you will find a well-defined trail on a snow bank which bypasses Trailside Meadow, Outpost Camp, and Mirror Lake. If you plan to go directly to Trail Camp you will want to put on your crampons and use this trail. You will have 100% snow travel after this point. If you're heading to Outpost Camp or you prefer not to use crampons for a while, look to the right and you'll see the main trail switchbacking up the hillside. The main trail through Outpost Camp and up to Mirror Lake is still easily negotiable without crampons.

Outpost camp is beautiful right now. The snow is not a problem, only a few bugs, plenty of easily accessible water, and great views. Overall I think it’s a much better choice then Trail Camp.

Outpost Camp to Trail Camp

We woke just after daybreak, at 5:00 am, by 6:15 we were on out way to Trail Camp using the main trail to Mirror Lake. After arriving on the east side of the lake we decided to ascend a steep slope on the south west side of the lake. You may be able to follow the main trail further, but we didn’t even explore it. At this point we cramponed-up, climbed the steep slope, and joined the main trail just above the lake. From this point to Trail Camp the trail was well-defined, mildly sloped, and easy-going with crampons. We arrived at Trail Camp about 8:30.

Trail camp has exposed rock and a few dirt campsites. The lake is still mostly frozen over, but water is readily available from a small stream that has formed in the lake. We got water, fixed equipment and blisters, and headed off for Trail Crest after 9:00.

Trail camp to Trail Crest

Again there is clear and defined path in the snow for the section, but it is definitely the crux of the route. It is a long steep snow bank and it took us at least two hours to reach Trail Crest. By mid-morning there was 3 inches of wet slick snow over a hard frozen pack. Eventually I was forced to kick steps for about 2/3 of the steep section. On the final 400’ I found another parties steps and the going got a lot easier. If you see someone in Trail camp who looks like they know what their doing, follow them up and you’ll save a lot of effort.

Later, from the summit of Mt. Muir, I could see (check my pictures) that as much as 2/3 of the upper switchbacks were clear of snow. If you go straight up above Trail Camp you may be able to find them and avoid most of the steeper climbing.

Trail Crest the summit

Take off your crampons and leave them with your ice ax at Trail Crest. From Trail Crest to the summit in you'll see only patchy snow (one large patch near the summit). No need crampons or an ice ax and you will be glad you left them behind. While this section is neither steep nor technically difficult it is a long and arduous hike at elevations above of 13,500.

After a short and highly recommended detour to climb Mt. Muir we made it to the summit about 2:15.

Mt. Muir

About a half mile past Trail Crest you’ll see a small use trail on the right leading to Mt. Muir. We scrambled up about 200’ through the scree and bolder field to the base of Mt. Muir’s summit block. The climb from there was about 100’ of airy class 3 to the summit. We were puckered-up quite a bit on the way up, but found it surprisingly easy to get down. It is a very fun side trip. I recommend you do it on the way up. You’ll be too tired on the way back and you’ll be more likely to chicken-out.

Experienced mountaineers could complete the route without crampons. There were a few people who did. If you need to ask how experienced you need to be to get up without crampons, you’ll need them.

bj


Just a drinker with a climbing problem
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Thanks for the comprehensive post. I find this kind of report to be a most valuable tool leading up to ones own ascent.

As for this...
http://www.kodakgallery.com/PhotoView.js...id=154748744205

LOL.

Joined: Jun 2005
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BJ,

thanks for the response to my other post and I agree with the poster above that the info in this post is very valuable and will help me a great deal.

Joined: Dec 2002
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bj,
Great pictures and a great post. I have never been up there in the snow. It is beautiful. The information you gave is wonderful. We have our permits for July 13th. I am praying that the snow will not be a problem. We have summited twice before, but never with that much snow.
Edie

Joined: May 2004
Posts: 128
bj
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 128
The Snow is not a problem now, it an enhancement. The route is more direct, the decent is much easier, and crampons and an ice do not require a rocket scientist or a 3 day training to use them correctly.

The route is not just the normal grind up the switchbacks; it's a true alpine experience. Embrace it, but be prepared too.


Just a drinker with a climbing problem
Joined: Jan 2003
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bj, best pictures of the switchbacks so far this season! You managed to capture three-fourths of them, from switchback #23 all the way to #97. You can compare your photos to my map of the 97 switchbacks <a href=http://www.ridgenet.net/~rockwell/Climbing/WaynePyle97Switchbacks.xls>here </a> in an Excel spreadsheet. It is interesting to note the trail is broken--trampled--in the cable section (switchbacks #45 to #46).

Your angle on Whitney's toilet-in-use is unique, if not a whole lot riske'! smile


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