Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board East Ridge Mt. Russell

Hi all,

Any opinions about doing the east ridge of Mt. Russell on the 21st?

Ie, is it possible to do the ridge without axe/crampons even if there is a little snow on it? Or, does any snow pretty much require technical equipment?

Thanks

the problem is that once the snow comes - there are rampy rocks that slope down along the North side - if you add a layer of snow in this mix it increases the danger factor by x10 - based on the what I saw yesterday - I would say getting too late to attempt - ice axe/crampons will not help this situtation. see post below to link on most recent picts

With any snow on it, there are sections I'd not think of trying without a roped belay (held TIGHT)

Quote: With any snow on it, there are sections I'd not think of trying without a roped belay (held TIGHT)

Agreed, the nature of the exposure on the ridge and some of the moves would make it kind of dangerous when snowy/icy. I personally wouldn't do it unless roped up. Here is a pic from summitpost showing/explaining the difficulties of an early winter summit with snow.
http://www.summitpost.org/image/132817/150515/steve-larson-on-east-ridge-of.html
Eric

Damn, Snowy! I shouldn't look at this forum until my morning coffee! Bringing back those memories actually speeds up my heartrate!

One of my favorite climbs. Bob Burd and I did the east ridge on May 7 this year. I think we were the first to sign the register for the year. There was quite a bit of snow but I don't recall putting our crampons on. We did get the ice axe out a few times to help with balance. Overall I can't say the snow caused us much trouble but then again it was good snow that offered a firm footing (got softer on the way down). We didn't feel a need to rope up and were able to avoid the bulk of it by staying more on the top of the ridge whenever possible (where climbing difficulty is a bit greater but where snow is less likely to accumulate). I suspect though that if conditions are particularly icy it could be considerably more difficult and possibly treacherous. In any case I would certainly bring crampons and ice axe. A short thin rope could also be handy.

<a href="http://www.rickkent.net/ViewerPlus/viewphoto.asp?ID=64973"> [img]http://www.rickkent.net/ViewerPlus/sendbinarydb.aspx?ID=64973&width=500[/img]</a>

<a href="http://www.rickkent.net/ViewerPlus/viewphoto.asp?ID=64886"> [img]http://www.rickkent.net/ViewerPlus/sendbinarydb.aspx?ID=64886&width=500[/img]</a>

<a href="http://www.rickkent.net/ViewerPlus/viewphoto.asp?ID=64902"> [img]http://www.rickkent.net/ViewerPlus/sendbinarydb.aspx?ID=64902&width=500[/img]</a>

This last photo shows a traverse (I think I'll call it the "Death Traverse") just before the east summit where you need to be especially careful. It is steep and exposed though there won't be as much snow there now as there is in this photo. On this occaision Bob and I were able to avoid the traverse by climbing higher on the ridge and then walking across the top of the snow field. On another occaision (below) I did the traverse with crampons and ice axe.

<a href="http://www.rickkent.net/ViewerPlus/viewphoto.asp?ID=52893"> [img]http://www.rickkent.net/ViewerPlus/sendbinarydb.aspx?ID=52893&width=500[/img]</a>

This last photo (a summer photo) shows where you'll go if you slip. You don't want to go there. It's that dark area at the bottom.

<a href="http://www.rickkent.net/ViewerPlus/viewphoto.asp?ID=16240"> [img]http://www.rickkent.net/ViewerPlus/sendbinarydb.aspx?ID=16240&width=500[/img]</a>

It really comes down to your experience and what the conditions are at the time.

-Rick

Heed the warnings of previous posters. As others have noted, the east ridge of Russel is a fantastic and absoultey asthetic route, but with ice on it.... yikes.

I did this route in the spring and encountered no snow and felt very comfortable. Conditions now would be much different. Very little snow has fallen (from the reports I've read, anyway) with warmer temps during the day and freezing at night. This is prime for icy conditions.

If you look at Rick's pictures, you'll notice it was probably a spring climb (Lots of packed snow, and probably good for kicking solid steps with boots and good axe placements). Not to mention Rick and Bob both, judging from what I've read on this board, have much experience on high peaks.

Rick's photo of the north face (the black abyss) kind of tells it all. The truth is, the only way you're going to find out is to get up there, unless someone heads up before you. The north fork is a great place to go, regardless of whether you make a summit or not. Getting to the base of the east ridge is pretty straight-forward. If things look dicey, you could always bag Carillon and Thor:)

That's my 2 centavos worth. Be safe and remember: "I soon realized that by going out... I was really going in." -- John Muir.

Gusto

Thanks for the information.

I suspected that this route would be quite a bit more dangerous with snow, and you guys have confirmed this.

I think I will choose a different trip for Oct 21st and save Mt. Russell for warmer weather...

Thanks,

-Wayne