Left trailhead around 5am. 1st snow about 1/2 way up canyon after 1st crossing. Trail gets lost in some spots, 2nd crossing is un-clear. The best spot is alomst directly at the ledges/pine tree. On our way down on the 27th there was considerably more water flowing and alot of the snow at lower elevations had melted. Daytime tempatures were in the 90's. However, I would strongly suggest you wear pants of some type and long sleeve shirt. Liberal SPF is a must. Be sure to get it inside your nose and ears. The sun reflects up off the snow, we got badly burned. I will use a nose cap next time. It was full snow after lower boyscout. We used crampons from this point but no axe, only poles. Brought snow shoes but never used them. Some postholing, but not much; it depends how early you start. Reached our first camp above upper boyscout around 4pm and relaxed. Very hot and sunny all day. Up and gone the next day around 7am. Hard snow was great to travel on. Reached iceburg around 8:30. Started up couloir in full sun, snow starting to soften. Exposed rock made climbing easier. Kick steping and poles worked fine; still no axe needed. Rounded notch at top and climbed up the very steep face directly on left. Used axe for self belay, great conditions. No ropes or pickes needed, even though we had them with us. Sumited around 2pm. Down climbed the same way. Walked back down col and back to our camp around 5pm. Out the next day at 7am; back at the the car by 11:30.
