Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Technical skills needed for main route

I have a permit for the last weekend in June. It appears that there's a high likelihood of there being snow on much of the trail. I've done Shasta so I have experience with crampons and self arrest. My climbing partner has no experience but when he called one of the mountain climbing classes, they indicated that there isn't any need for crampons on the main trail, even with a snow base. They say it would be easy and safe to hike with just boots. Is that true? Or does anyone have a different perspective?

As Doug said every day is different. It will be what you run into on a particular day and how comfortable you feel traveling over snow and ice conditions of that day.

If I feel the least bit uncomfortable I go to crampons and ice axe, if don't have the tools which I consider necessary for a safe trip I turn around and head back.

Only you and your friend are going to be able to answer that question based on the conditions you see.

Just a quick question--Who tought your climbing classes?

Given the high snowfall in the Sierra this year, it is unlikely that the trail will have melted out by the end of June, especially the "cables" area of the 98 Switchbacks. Look at this shot:



Now, consider that the downhill side of the trail there is a steep (45+ degree) slab of granite with 500' or more exposure. If the snowfield were still across the trail, as opposed to having melted out when Nathan and I were up there in early July, 2001, would you want to cross that stretch without ice axe, crampons and experience???

That said, keep monitoring the list and see whether the trail has melted out or is sufficiently rutted to allow you to pass that stretch without undue risk.

My $0.02 worth says it won't be until mid-July, but that's a guess at this point in mid-May.

Glenn, the cable section (between switchback #45 and switchback #46) is completely covered by snow, and the cables are not up. No one knows when the cables can be put in place at this point, as a lot of snow has to melt. If you can imagine all the snow being iced over, you can quickly see that "just boots" won't work. However, if we have a lot of hot weather between now and the end of June, soft snow will allow many to trample a trough through the cable area, but that snow often freezes after sundown, and thaws again after sunrise. You would not want to be too early in that area or too late, without crampons and your ice axe. So, keep checking this board, as many will be posting conditions around the cable section.

Alan, nice picture. Some writers have claimed 98 switchbacks, or more, but they are mistaken. At last count there are only 97. If your computer can handle Excel, check the map <a href=http://www.ridgenet.net/~rockwell/Climbing/WaynePyle97Switchbacks.xls>here</a>.